Cold Process Emulsifier Olivem 2090

Can We Overcome the Challenges of Oil-Based Emulsions? Meet Cold Process Emulsifier Olivem 2090 The assumption that oil-based emulsion production is considerably more difficult compared to water-based formulation types has become established knowledge in the cosmetics world over the years. For this reason, formulators place significantly greater emphasis on water-based formulas. While water-based systems offer important advantages and relatively fewer production difficulties, oil-based systems also provide different benefits and versatility. For this reason, we wanted to examine the inherent challenges of oil-based formulas and explore whether we can reduce these difficulties by using new technology cosmetic raw materials. Assumption #1: Oil-based emulsions cannot provide the light sensory feel that consumers desire. Oil-based emulsions are known for their excessive thickness and sticky feel. Additionally, many common emulsifiers lack compatibility with the pigments used, causing inhomogeneous distribution. Assumption #2: The polarity incompatibility of oils used in the formula and the instability of water phase raw materials make the stability of oil-based emulsions difficult. Unlike water-based systems, in oil-based systems the polarity compatibility and ratio of oils used in the oil phase greatly affect the stability of the emulsion. If the polarity of the oil phase does not match the polarity of the emulsifier, the emulsion will not be stable. Additionally, attractive forces between water droplets can cause coalescence and consequently stability problems. Adding salt to oil-based formulas can reduce this problem. Assumption #3: High energy is required for a stable W/O emulsion. High energy use is what controls the particle size dispersed within an emulsion. If sufficient mixing speed is not applied during the emulsion preparation stage, water particles of different sizes and consequently stability problems can be observed in the formula. Fortunately, modern advances in ester chemistry have enabled the creation of next-generation emulsifiers that require lower energy requirements and have a more natural profile, better sensory feel and greater stability. Hallstar Beauty recently introduced Olivem 2090 (INCI: Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate/Polyricinoleate), a 100% naturally derived (ISO 16128 NOI:1), vegan, cold process W/O emulsifier that offers outstanding performance, excellent sensory feel and moisturizing benefits for many different cosmetic applications. Hallstar's expertise in olive oil chemistry enabled the development of this unique ingredient that combines the emulsifying properties of polyglyceryl esters of polyricinoleic acids with the skin benefits of olive oil fatty acids. • Sensory feel: When used in equal proportions in the formula and compared with more conventional emulsifiers, Olivem 2090 provides rapid absorption, high skin softness and silky feel to the formulation, along with extraordinary lightness and spreadability. • Stability: Olivem 2090 creates a homogeneous layer surrounding water droplets and imparts high stability to the emulsion. Additionally, it has high compatibility with all types of oils and preservatives and enables a reduction in the amount of oil required in the formula to achieve good pigment dispersion. It increases the wettability of inorganic UV filters such as TiO2 and ZnO and emulsifies all organic filters perfectly. • Energy savings (also cost and time savings): With Olivem 2090, oil-based emulsions can be prepared using either hot or cold process methods; this makes Olivem 2090 a versatile ingredient providing energy savings. Olivem® 2090 is an ideal emulsifier for such formulas due to its high compatibility with sunscreen filters. Its unique sensory feel allows for lightweight sunscreen formulas with high SPF content despite the water-repellent properties inherent to oil-based formulas. Olivem 2090 stands out not only as a natural/green ingredient much needed by the cosmetics market but also for having a short and clean INCI. Using this product, you can obtain fully natural, lightweight yet luxurious-feel oil-based formulas. For more detailed information about the product, sample requests and formulas developed in the Brenntag Türkiye cosmetics laboratory, please contact us.   Translator and Compiler Özge Yüksel Özel Business Development Manager / Personal Care & Cleaning Brenntag Türkiye