Preserving the Impossible: Effectiveness in Nature-Based Formulations

PROTECTING THE IMPOSSIBLE: EFFECTIVENESS WITH NATURAL-BASED FORMULATIONS

Face mask applications, particularly cleansing masks containing natural materials such as mud and clay, are regarded as problematic from a protective efficacy standpoint. Masks are applied to sensitive facial areas and left on for approximately 20 minutes by consumers of all ages. For this reason, irritation is a significant concern. Mud and clay are preferred by consumers and considered safe. However, a component originating from nature does not mean its use is safe. The situation is even more serious for mud and clay since they can contain everything extracted from soil, including microorganisms. Formulators often do not know where the mud originates, how it is processed, or what treatments it has undergone. Typical bacterial counts found in mud can range from 10⁵-10⁷. Today, radiation treatment is used as the standard method to process mud, though it is quite costly. This is because very few preservative substances can successfully meet the challenge required to eliminate microbial risk. Even when the material is sterile, interaction with water when added to the formula can create a protection problem. The combination of the original nature of raw materials and their interactions within the formula necessitates a highly efficient solution. Through Sharon Laboratuvarları's research on face mask applications, we have demonstrated that working with Sharomix™ Amplify protective systems will provide broad-spectrum protection for both mud and face masks. These strategic systems, which are pending patent approval, achieve high protective efficacy even at low dosages in both anionic and cationic formulations, while offering high-efficacy solutions compliant with regulations that reduce the risk of irritation.

TMAC results came in at <10 levels in tests conducted on untreated, non-irradiated mud from the surroundings of the Dead Sea using 1% Sharomix™ AM252.

These results have allowed avoidance of costly radiation treatment or transition from existing aggressive preservatives to a consumer-oriented option. In the next step, the system's efficacy was tested in a formula containing 20% Dead Sea mud. On non-irradiated mud, the AM25 preservative was tested for efficacy at the 1% level. Similarly, additional testing was conducted on a formula containing 0.7% AM25 and 20% treated mud. Noteworthy results were obtained in both tests. After 48 hours, a significant log reduction to <10 was observed for all 5 microorganisms. This demonstrated that the system could protect high-risk material at low usage levels whether or not it had been pre-processed. The same study was conducted on Bentonite and Kaolin face masks with Sharomix™ AM20 and similarly good results were obtained. To address the call for phenoxyethanol-free protection in facial products, a similar study was conducted with Sharomix™ AM24. This system, used in a difficult-to-protect formula containing 20% mud, successfully protected the product at 0.8% level. In conclusion, a component derived naturally does not guarantee safety. In fact, in the preservative world, it is often quite the opposite. When formulating facial care products with such components, considerations including efficacy, formula compatibility, product requirements, regulation, and of course safety should be taken into account, and the right solution should be sought to address all aspects.

ASTAREAL® ASTAXANTHIN FORMULATIONS FOR SKIN HEALTH

The global nutraceutical market, which had a volume of USD 27.53 billion in 2018, is projected to reach USD 42.30 billion by 2023. The current market is divided according to ingredient types including prebiotics, probiotics, vitamins, essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and more. Single-ingredient products provide personalized nutritional supplement support to consumers on their own, while specialized blends provide this support by matching ingredients in proportions that will deliver maximum benefits. Astareal® Astaxanthin, a potent antioxidant, suppresses Free Radical species in metabolism while providing mitochondrial nutrient support. Thanks to astaxanthin's antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, it can be used in formulas developed for skin, eye, muscle, heart, and mental health. In this direction, astaxanthin has been formulated with numerous ingredients including collagens, tocotrienols, other carotenoids, vitamins, and plant extracts.

AstaReal® Astaxanthin and Collagen Interaction

Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body, found intensely in bones, skin, muscles, and tendons. Skin aging is a continuous and complex process affected by genetic factors as well as environmental components such as UV radiation, cigarette smoke exposure, and pollution. These environmental factors, and particularly UV radiation, create reactive free radicals that damage skin cells and break down collagen in the skin. As we age, collagen begins to break down more rapidly and fibroblasts struggle to maintain collagen production. Only collagen peptides carry the amino acids that fibroblasts need to produce collagen. However, skin is exposed daily to an environmental ROS environment. A study demonstrated that skin fibroblasts exposed to ROS lost the ability to produce collagen, while those treated with natural astaxanthin survived when exposed to ROS and maintained 80% collagen production capacity. While collagen supports firm and elastic skin, collagen degradation leads to the appearance of wrinkles. Astareal® Astaxanthin reverses the effects of UV exposure, improves wrinkle effects, and reduces transepidermal water loss. Astareal® Astaxanthin can be developed with any collagen formulation by protecting both existing collagen and collagen-producing cells against free radicals.

AstaReal® Astaxanthin and Hyaluronic Acid Interaction

Hyaluronic acid is the skin's natural moisturizer, binding 1000 times its weight in water to support skin hydration. However, hyaluronic acid has a short half-life; this means most of it degrades daily; degradation is intensified by exposure to environmental ROS. To renew this water-binding molecule and support skin hydration, hyaluronic acid combined with natural astaxanthin has been observed to protect against free radicals and also increase hyaluronic acid production. Since astaxanthin develops healthy protection to reduce water loss in the skin and hyaluronic acid helps water accumulate in the deeper layers of the skin, the combination of Astareal® Astaxanthin and hyaluronic acid is a very powerful combination for skin moisturization.

AstaReal® Astaxanthin and Ceramides Interaction

Ceramides are components found in the outer layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, and help retain moisture. Ceramides not only form naturally in our skin, but there are also many natural ceramide sources. Plant-based ones are called phytoceramides. A leading product in the market states that the combination of phytoceramides, marine collagen, aloe vera, and Astareal® Astaxanthin supports skin moisture and smoothness and protects skin against free radicals.

AstaReal® Astaxanthin – Make a Difference

Astareal® Astaxanthin is the most studied astaxanthin brand. Its benefits for skin, eye, mental health, endurance and muscle recovery, and cardiovascular function are clinically proven and easily combined with key ingredients such as Vitamin C, E and B complex, Zinc, Magnesium, Omega 3, Coenzyme Q10, Turmeric, Lutein, Zeaxanthin, MCT oils. Contact us to discover whether your favorite ingredient can be matched with AstaReal Astaxanthin. You can reach us at the Food & Nutritional Ingredients Fair at Arısan Grup Stand Hall-9 Booth-860. Author - Naama Eylon - Assistant Manager, Personal Care - Sharon Laboratories