CR&D's proprietary product AFA-GS

AFA-GS, a proprietary product of CR&D, represents a new step in cosmetic active raw material production. It is now understood that Mitochondrial DNA Structure Defense (MDSD) must be activated to help skin cells fight damage caused by external factors (UV radiation, heavy metals, fine dust) and internal factors (stress and toxins entering the body through food and beverages). AFA-GS is obtained from Klamath algae (Aphanizomenon flos Aquae: AFA) through selective extraction methodology while preserving the dermatological properties of its compounds. Klamath alga is a freshwater blue-green alga grown in a volcanic crater lake located in Southern Oregon. Klamath Lake water is among the most mineral-rich waters due to the relatively young age of the volcanic crater, containing minerals such as Fe, Zn, Se and Mg. It is well documented that Native American tribes indigenous to Oregon (Bannock and Chasta) used Klamath alga in the production of many natural remedies. Recent scientific research and studies have proven that AFA's components exist in great abundance and comparisons have been made with the category's best-known representatives, Spirulina and Chlorella. The most interesting compound in AFA is Phycocyanin-C. Phycocyanin-C is a chromophore complex composed of repeating protein and tetra pyrole units. While this active compound is known to exist in some other blue-green algae, AFA demonstrates different success compared to others in defending mitochondrial DNA structure against internal and external effects (environmental effects) and oxidation. AFA-GS contains a very broad range of vitamins (primarily B-group vitamins) along with important amino acids, Omega-3 fatty acids (predominantly alpha-linolenic) and controlled growth factors, all of which make AFA one of the most complete and effective sources of health and vitality. From a skin care perspective, AFA-GS is a rich source of Glyceryl Glucoside and this substance retains a bound water molecule even under the most difficult anhydrous conditions.

Phycocyanin-C (Antioxidant Activity)

Klamath alga contains more than 15% Phycocyanin on a dry matter basis. Phycocyanin has a characteristic light blue colour and absorbs orange-red light, particularly at 620 nm; it fluoresces at 650 nm (which may vary depending on type). Phycocyanin-C demonstrates very significant antioxidant properties in the tocopherol test. This characteristic property exhibits synergistic effects with other valuable actives in its composition, enabling cellular-level protection.

Toxin Removal Effectiveness

Scientific studies have proven that Klamath alga is effective in eliminating heavy metals (cadmium, lead, mercury) from the body through actual physiological excretion via a different mechanism than chelation. (S. Ichimaru and N. Ogino)

Anti-Pollution Test

The protective effect of AFA-GS against airborne pollutants was tested in vitro on reconstructed 3-dimensional human epidermis. Cellular metabolic activities were measured with the MMT test (skin protection effect on the epidermis model under stress from a mixture of pollutants (PC: As, Cd, Co, Cr, Ni, Pb, Sr, Sb), with observations showing that 3% AFA-GS and 10% AFA-GS reduced pre-inflammatory cytokine production in cells.

Anti-Inflammatory Activity

AFA-GS's excellent anti-inflammatory effect makes it highly suitable as an active for sensitive and stressed skin types. Monocytes and macrophages synthesise and release a variety of cytokines and proteins with important roles in anti-inflammatory activity. THP-1 is a human monocyte culture and these cells produce pre-inflammatory cytokines (IL-1, IL-6, TNF) and chemokines (IL-8 and MCP-1) following stimulation by lipopolysaccharides (LPS). LPS is the major component found on the outermost membrane of Gram-negative bacteria. Recent studies have demonstrated that LPS is recognised by monocytes and macrophages in the innate immune system. Human monocytes are highly sensitive to LPS and produce many inflammatory cytokines in response to LPS. AFA-GS's anti-inflammatory activity was evaluated in the following test. THP-1 cells were exposed to different AFA-GS concentrations (3%, 2.5%, 2%, 1.5%, 1%, 0.5%, 0.25% and 0.125%) for 2 hours and subsequently THP-1 cells were forced to produce pre-inflammatory cytokines (TNF-α) with LPS [100 μg/L] for 1 hour. The resulting TNF-α amount was determined by ELISA (Enzyme-Linked Immunosorbent Assay) test. In order: Control: cells without LPS; LPS: cells containing only LPS; cells containing AFA-GS and subsequently exposed to LPS and different concentrations.

Glyceryl Glucoside Multi-Layer Skin Hydration

The effectiveness of AFA-GS in skin hydration was demonstrated using a moisture measurement test at 2% concentration. Measurements were taken at different time intervals and at different depths of the skin.

Skin Elasticity

An increase in skin elasticity following application of a gel containing 2% AFA-GS where mitochondrial DNA is well protected, with this effect persisting hours after application, was demonstrated in vivo. Melania Di Liberto Cosmetic Researcher B.C. Cosmetic and Food srl       Burçak Alioğlu Technical Sales Manager Arkem Kimya