New Plant-Based Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Aging Ingredients

Scientists from VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland, working on a joint project with 16 partners from 11 European countries, have discovered new plant-based components with proven anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing effects for developing next-generation skin care products. This research represents the most comprehensive scientific examination conducted to date on plant-based cosmetic ingredients.

The InnCoCells project marks a shift in how cosmetic ingredients are discovered, validated and developed. While previous work largely focused on individual isolated plant compounds, InnCoCells adopted a broad, systematic screening approach. More than 100 plant extracts were screened for their effects on 20 skin biomarkers associated with inflammation and ageing, yielding approximately 25 extracts suitable for development as skin care product ingredients. Importantly, these extracts can be sourced from plants grown responsibly in greenhouses, from plant cell and tissue cultures in bioreactors, or from agricultural by-products that would otherwise be waste; making them not only effective but also environmentally sustainable. The sustainability and commercial potential of all production platforms and components were validated through life cycle assessment and techno-economic analysis.

Breakthrough plant cell extracts targeting inflammation and ageing
Among the most exciting discoveries are extracts obtained from Cochlearia danica (Danish scurvy-grass) cell cultures, Capsicum chinense (a tropical pepper species) cell cultures, and adventitious roots of Ocimum basilicum (basil).

C. danica cell cultures, from a small plant native to Northern European coasts, ranked first in our studies for the production of multiple scientifically proven bioactive compounds. This multifaceted extract not only demonstrated strong anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing activity in vitro, but also showed stronger antimicrobial effects than many single-component formulations currently on the market.

C. chinense cell culture extracts also showed promising antimicrobial activity against harmful skin bacteria; even suppressing the pathogenic bacterium Staphylococcus aureus MRSA found in hospitals. Additionally, the extract demonstrated strong anti-ageing activity by protecting skin cells from stress. However, unlike popular anti-ageing ingredients such as retinol and vitamin C, no signs of skin irritation were observed.

Basil adventitious root extracts demonstrated unique anti-collagenase and anti-hyaluronidase activity while not affecting elastase; pointing to potential in combating signs of ageing without affecting skin hydration. "These findings show that nature and science can come together to create next-generation cosmetic ingredients," says Kirsi-Marja Oksman-Caldentey, InnCoCells project coordinator at VTT. "For the first time, we are building a line of ingredients that combine scientifically proven skin benefits with responsible and scalable production. This direction reflects what consumers and the beauty industry are actively seeking, while also aligning with the broader objectives of Europe's bioeconomy."

These discoveries directly feed growing demand for commercial applications. VTT and its partners are already exploring business models to bring these ingredients closer to market. The aim is not only to demonstrate efficacy, but also to find the right partners to produce these ingredients commercially, enabling brands to integrate them into their product formulations.

"Collaborating with European research institutes, universities and SMEs during the InnCoCells project offered an exciting opportunity for international companies to access the latest expertise in plant research," says Dr. Christophe Carola from MERCK.

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