Protein Folding

Protein Folding: New Major Theory for Protecting Skin Health Proteins are responsible for numerous biological processes in living organisms. In skin, they form structures such as keratin, collagen and elastin, while also being responsible for functional processes (cellular respiration, repair, cell communication, waste removal). Every protein's amino acid composition and sequence results in a complex and highly specific three-dimensional shape. This structure defines the protein's function and how it operates. Research spanning decades and the development of artificial intelligence in the process have helped scientists around the world uncover protein shapes and better understand the natural world. Although protein folding subsequently emerged as a major challenge for understanding biology, including numerous degenerative diseases, it is also an important area of interest for skin care. In fact, Symrise believes that the strategy for protecting skin health is shifting toward a new paradigm centered on protein protection. In this scientific context, we have seen the rise of a new keyword – "Proteome" – defined to address all protein-related issues for a tissue or organism. The proteome is sensitive to the exposome. When exposed to intrinsic (chronological aging) or extrinsic (solar radiation, pollution, etc.) stress factors, the proteome will accumulate damage and ultimately lead to loss of skin functionality and radiance. As one of the leading explorers of the exposome, Symrise has developed new methods to deliver visible skin benefits to consumers.

Testing the Efficacy of Supervisome™ EPH

Proteome protection is provided by chaperone (escort) proteins that supervise the proper folding of "client" proteins and bind to misfolded proteins to prevent irreversible aggregation. By strengthening chaperones, we can achieve healthy-looking, bright and radiant skin integrity. Small Heat Shock Proteins – (HSP27 and CRYAB) – are molecular chaperones found in various biological processes and tissues. This class of heat shock proteins is particularly interesting because it was identified as part of an early response to stress events. Gene expression levels of molecular chaperones were determined using a qPCR setup. Of the small HSPs analyzed in the experiment, gene expression of HSPB3, a member of the HSP27 family, was found to be 13-fold compared to control; for CRYAB, it was 6-fold compared to control. In a subsequent experiment, we validated the above results at the functional level. Cell viability was determined using an MTT assay. Supervisome™ EPH improved cell resistance to heat shock treatment in a dose-dependent manner. This suggests that the induction of HSPs by Supervisome™ EPH has a positive effect on cell survival. The experiment also showed that Supervisome™ EPH had no harmful effects on cells by itself. Human skin explants were used to validate the findings of in vitro studies. In the initial approach, without any external stress applied, gene induction measured in vitro was confirmed to be reflected in an increase in HSP27 protein abundance in ex vivo. Indeed, Supervisome™ EPH applied topically in a classic emulsion provided a +61% increase in HSP27 score. To investigate the effect of Supervisome™ EPH on different types of stress, human skin explants were used. Here, an experiment was performed by applying diesel particles to mimic environmental stress as an integral part of the exposome. Analysis of the tissue's apoptotic state was performed using the TUNEL test, with samples taken to evaluate protein carbonylation as a marker for irreversible oxidative protein damage in cells. Accordingly, protein oxidation was significantly reduced by 33%. This result demonstrates that Supervisome™ EPH provides protection against exposure stress caused by pollution. The results of the TUNEL test also showed that Supervisome™ EPH counteracted apoptotic effects induced by pollution treatment. Since this specific protein is known to play a role in preventing apoptotic effects, it can also be said to be in good agreement with the activation of CRYAB at the molecular level. Finally, an in vivo study conducted on split-face testing with Caucasian volunteers with dull skin showed an increase in skin radiance (L*), luminosity (L*/c, where c is color saturation) and overall visible skin vitality (ITA°). Results showed increases of +50-55% in ΔL*, ΔRadiance and ΔITA°, with significant results achieved versus placebo.

Conclusion

Supervisome™ EPH is a 100% natural and readily biodegradable solution based on organic mercury plant. It is globally approved and standardized to deliver consistent efficacy. This easy-to-use, water-soluble powder can help achieve a radiant skin appearance in just one month without imparting any color or odor to the finished formulation. All of these mentioned properties make Supervisome™ EPH an excellent solution for applications across all product categories focused on daily facial and body care, sun care, after-sun, makeup products and pigmentation, radiance, skin health, and skin tone preservation. Amélie Gafari Global Product Manager Symrise AG Özgür Çelen Turkey Sales Manager Symrise AG