Peru Natural Active Ingredients – Cobiosa
Peru Natural Active Ingredients – Cobiosa
As the world continues to advance, society is becoming increasingly conscious about the origins of cosmetic ingredients found in products.
While effective results continue to be demanded, consumers are increasingly turning to products that leverage natural active ingredients.
Therefore, industries such as Cobiosa, which have been developing innovative natural active ingredients for over 50 years, enhance their product quality by sourcing raw materials from locations capable of meeting purity and efficacy standards.
For example, Peru, recognized for its biodiversity and ancestral cultural practices, possesses a treasure trove of natural active ingredients acknowledged for their extraordinary properties.
Throughout this article, we will present specific examples of Peru active ingredients produced by Cobiosa: Dragon's Blood, Cobioage, Cobiolift and Protecsyl.
Dragon's Blood, a resin derived from the latex of the Amazon Croton lechleri tree, possesses numerous properties beneficial in skin care treatments.
Various studies have demonstrated that this innovative ingredient possesses epigenetic activity contributing to key processes.
Methods used: miRVana (miRNA purification kit - Life Technologies), GeneChip® (miRNA 4.0 Array - Affymetrix) and ClariomTM S (Gene full transcriptome expression profile - Affymetrix).
All these methods were tested on a keratinocyte cell line treated with 1μg/ml Dragon's Blood solution.
The findings confirmed that Dragon's Blood is capable of regulating relevant gene expression and controlling and modifying 8 of the 9 molecular markers of cellular aging:
• Stimulation of epidermal healing and remodeling: Dragon's Blood (DrgB) stimulates the expression of genes located in epidermal structure (FRK) and in the skin healing process (WNT4 and NRG4).
• Inhibition of pro-inflammatory substances: Dragon's Blood reduces the inflammatory aging process: inflammatory response arising as a consequence of aging.
The genes downregulated by DrgB related to oxidative stress, inflammation and skin barrier function are IL1B, IL6 and PTGS2.
• Stimulation of antioxidant and detoxification cellular systems: DrgB stimulates the synthesis of antioxidant defense genes such as: GPX2 (Glutathione peroxidase 2), ALDH3B1 and AKR1C2. These genes play a role in the detoxification of hydrocarbons.
The origin of the word COBIOAGE comes from Caesalpinia spinosa, a tree native to Peru also known as Tara or Peru mesquite, which has been studied by Cobiosa and represents an example of sustainability and versatility.
From the bark of this tree, we have developed COBIOAGE, a rich source of bioactive compounds with very powerful redensifying, antioxidant, tightening and anti-aging effects.
This sustainable active provides cosmetic formulations with a broad spectrum of action necessary to meet demands for changes related to skin aging.
Its efficacy has been proven in 22 women: 50% between 40 and 60 years old, and the other 50% over 60 years old. Treatment was applied twice daily for 56 days, with 3% COBIOAGE emulsion on one half of the face and placebo emulsion on the other half. After 56 days, COBIOAGE resulted in a 16% improvement in skin firmness.
COBIOLIFT is an innovative active ingredient with immediate lifting and anti-wrinkle effects. Its composition is a purified fraction of polysaccharides derived from quinoa seeds.
Thanks to its special structure and molecular weight, COBIOLIFT naturally provides high tensioning capacity.
Its three-dimensional structure can adapt perfectly to the skin surface by creating multiple hydrogen bonds between the polar heads of lipids in the stratum corneum.
Wrinkle depth, skin roughness and skin volume in the crow's feet area have been proven to be protected by PROTECSYL, a water-soluble active ingredient that ensures protection of the Cell Membrane Complex (CMC).
The Cell Membrane Complex (CMC) is a lamellar emulsion used to bind each hair cuticle scale. CMC, or intercellular cement, is the material that binds hair cells to each other.
Composed of water, lipids and amino acids, it strengthens the cuticle, binding this area to the cortex like an intercellular cement, providing strength, smoothness and elasticity.
When hair fiber proteins become unstructured, radiation penetrates the CMC and affects it. It has been evaluated in a placebo-controlled, double-blind randomized study.
COBIOLIFT, tested at 0.5%, 1.5% and 3.0% concentrations, demonstrated significant tightening effects and proved to be a film-forming active ingredient that stretches the skin surface and causes a significant reduction in skin volume compared to placebo.
Volunteers confirmed the sensory sensation of lifting felt after the formulations were applied. COBIOLIFT shows an immediate lifting effect even at the lowest product concentration (0.5%).
PROTECSYL is a water-soluble active ingredient proven to ensure protection of the Cell Membrane Complex (CMC).
The Cell Membrane Complex (CMC) is a lamellar emulsion used to bind each hair cuticle scale. CMC, or intercellular cement, is the material that binds hair cells to each other.
Composed of water, lipids and amino acids, it strengthens the cuticle, binding this area to the cortex like an intercellular cement, providing strength, smoothness and elasticity. When hair fiber proteins become unstructured, radiation penetrates the CMC and affects it.
The protective effect of the active ingredient against UVA-induced protein degradation in hair was examined in an ex-vivo assay using 5% and 10% PROTECSYL concentrations.
UVA irradiation significantly increased protein degradation by 62.8% when compared to non-irradiated controls, but when treated with 5% and 10% PROTECSYL, protein degradation decreased significantly by 31.4% and 63.8%, respectively, compared to control + UVA.
Emel Babacan Gürbıyık
General Manager
ATS Advanced Technology Supplies A.Ş.
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