Trends in Cosmetic Products

Trends in Cosmetic Products and Active Ingredients in Anti-Aging Formulations Current Trends in Cosmetic Products With the pandemic, single-use and hygienic products are becoming more widespread in cosmetics. Interest is increasing in effective products against irritation and acne caused by mask use. Due to frequent hand washing, products that maintain the balance of beneficial bacteria friendly to skin, and moisturize and nourish the skin are showing growth. As more time is spent on digital devices, interest in products providing blue light protection is increasing. Within the concepts of health and wellness, ingredients used in skincare that provide skin benefits, soothing effects, and stress reduction are beginning to be preferred. Among the most prominent claims in cosmetic products are: For sensitive skin, Moisturizing, Dermatologically tested, Antioxidant, Anti-aging, Brightening/Illuminating, UV protection, Vitamins and minerals-enriched statements. "Anti-aging claims" in cosmetic products show a 200% increase (Mintel GNPD). To reduce aging signs on skin, products incorporate anti-aging active ingredients, extracts and actives.

Skin Moisture Balance

Our skin protects our body against mechanical, chemical and biological external influences. It regulates body water balance and temperature. Through sweat glands it eliminates harmful substances. Healthy and youthful skin is directly proportional to high collagen levels. A decrease in water content in the stratum corneum causes a reduction in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (Natural Moisturizing Factor), and with the loss of these substances, surface cracks develop on the skin and it begins to dry out. With aging, approximately 20% of the dermis is lost. In most anti-aging research related to skin, it consists of structural components such as collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans. To maintain skin moisture balance, cosmetic products use glycerin, sodium lactate, urea, propylene glycol, sorbitol, hyaluronic acid, vitamins and certain proteins and amino acids. i. Amino acids are the building blocks of all proteins, including the fibrous proteins most abundant in skin such as keratins, collagen and elastin. Amino acids are important for: (a) supporting wound healing and repair of damaged skin; (b) acid-base balance and water retention in cellular layers such as the stratum corneum; (c) protection against sun damage; (d) maintaining appropriate skin microbiota. (1) Amino acids naturally present in skin structure such as Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Proline, Threonine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Phenylalanine are frequently used in anti-aging products for skin. ii. Known strategies aimed at preventing photoaging include avoiding sun exposure, using sunscreens to prevent or reduce skin exposure to UV radiation, using retinoids to inhibit collagenase synthesis and promote collagen production, and using antioxidants, especially in combination, to reduce and neutralize damage. (2)   In skin care products, extracts such as Alchemilla vulgaris (Lady's Mantle), Aesculus hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut), Camellia Sinensis (White Tea), Citrus sinensis (Orange), Vitis vinifera (Grape), Avena sativa (White Oat) prevent oxidative damage and provide youthful appearance to skin. iii. Effects of Collagen and Hyaluronic Acid: Collagen and elastin fibers are found in the dermis layer. Collagen is abundant in skin. With aging, there is loss of collagen and its building block hyaluronic acid in the inner layers of skin, as well as loss of adipose tissue. Skin loses elasticity and becomes vulnerable to damage. (3) Skin that loses elasticity develops sagging, wrinkles and deep lines. It becomes defenseless against sun rays. Skin gradually takes on an aged appearance. Collagen and hyaluronic acid play a very important role in keeping our skin youthful. Skin elasticity increases and skin moisture balance improves. Collagen density in deeper skin layers increases. While hyaluronic acid keeps skin moist, it triggers collagen production, increasing skin firmness and vitality. Hyaluronic acid also exhibits anti-oxidant effects, protecting our skin against the harmful effects of free radicals. Hyaluronic acid thus helps delay skin aging. Three natural botanical essences that increase and protect collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid (HA) levels in skin—Centella Asiatica extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) leaf extract, Echinacea angustifolia (Narrow-leaved Purple Coneflower) leaf extract—provide wrinkle prevention and skin renewal effects. It increases skin firmness in both superficial and deeper layers, reduces skin sagging and overall reduces wrinkles for a more youthful-looking complexion and makes skin smoother. Elastin allows skin to stretch and recover, and HA contributes to skin moisturization and volume. In cosmetic applications, for anti-aging effects, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, Vitamin A (retinol), Vitamin B2 (riboflavin), Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), Panthenol (Provitamin B5), biotin, folic acid, Vitamin E (Tocopherol acetate) and other vitamins are used, as well as Allantoin, alpha and beta hydroxy acids, alpha bisabolol, amino acids, arbutin, caffeine, egg protein, honey and honey derivatives, algae and seaweed-derived actives, minerals, enzymes, natural oils, oligo elements, polypeptides, oligopeptides, polyphenols, flavonoids, polysaccharides. Plant seed oils preferred for softening, soothing and firming effects are rich in carotenoid content, Vitamin E and essential fatty acids (linoleic acid, γ-linolenic acid and α-linolenic acid). When determining usage amounts of anti-aging ingredients, ranges in which raw materials demonstrate effective performance are preferred. Following application, skin is expected to appear more youthful, the product to have nourishing effects, skin to appear more luminous, skin to be more moist, and the product to have skin-improving effects. For studies on efficacy tests to determine whether products provide targeted performance and care effects, skin analysis is conducted before and after product use by measuring moisturization with a Corneometer device, Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin pH value, skin elasticity with a Cutometer, and melanin and redness (erythema) in skin with a Mexameter, and comparisons are made. Didem Bilir R&D Project Manager (Personal Care) Evyap Sabun Yağ Gliserin San.ve Tic. A.Ş.