J-DERMIST

J-DERMIST Ageing Factor There are many factors affecting skin ageing. These factors can be categorised as biological, lifestyle and environmental factors. The genetic factors inherited from previous generations and gravity, which permanently affects the resistance of our tissues, cannot be controlled in daily life.

The Effect of Gravity on Ageing

When collagen and elastin production in the skin decreases with ageing, the sagging skin exposed to the effects of gravity loses its elasticity and resilience. As a result of this loss of elasticity, skin tissue becomes slack, fullness diminishes and expression lines become more pronounced. Consequently, the face loses its oval shape and takes on an inverted V shape. To restore the skin to its original form, inspiration was drawn from the upright stems of Isodon japonicus, known in Japanese as "Enmei-so" meaning "plant that extends life", with the aim of eliminating the negative effects of gravity on mature skin.

Isodon Japonicus – Elasticity and Firmness Effect

The plant, whose stems can reach 2 metres in height, has the ability to stand upright despite the effects of gravity. This characteristic provides both elasticity and firmness to the structure.

Lignin – The Main Component of Support Tissues

Lignin is a hard cell tissue that provides mechanical resistance to the sclerenchyma plant (shown in green in the image). Resistance to gravity effects in support tissues is related to the improvement of the sinuous structure of the Dermal-Epidermal Junction (DEJ) and dermis density. Dermal-Epidermal Junction (DEJ) structures are obtained from both keratinocyte and fibroblast activity. DEJ components are obtained from keratinocyte and fibroblast activity. In the DEJ region, physical undulation results in skin ageing. By increasing the activity of keratinocytes and fibroblasts, the aim is to restore the skin to its original state. In the dermis region, slowdown in the metabolic activity of fibroblasts reduces elasticity and the skin ages. Following the reactivation of the synthesis of extracellular matrix components and structural factors, the skin is renewed and rejuvenated.

Mechanism of Action of J-DERMIST

J-DERMIST is an active ingredient targeting the restoration of metabolic activity of keratinocytes and fibroblasts. J-DERMIST also supports the reorganisation of Extracellular Matrix tissue. Restoration of Keratinocyte Metabolic Activity DEJ structures are synthesised by both keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Thus, rejuvenation of the DEJ is partly dependent on reactivation of keratinocyte metabolic synthesis. J-DERMIST increases keratinocyte metabolic synthesis by 44%. This action positively affects epidermal cohesion and the regeneration of DEJ structures. In-Vitro tests were conducted with J-DERMIST at 0.2% concentration over 24 hours to demonstrate the restoration of fibroblast metabolic activity. Gene expression analysis is performed using a PCR Array designed for dermal matrix. The results are schematised in three separate ways as follows: expression of genes involved in collagen synthesis and maturation (a), expression of genes involved in proteoglycan and glycoprotein synthesis (b), and expression of genes involved in DEJ binding and composition (c).

New Method in Extracellular Matrix Fibre Analysis

The Kamax method is used to analyse extracellular matrix fibres to measure both the density and quality of collagen fibres. XPolar® technology is used in the Kamax method for qualification and measurement. Codif laboratories is among the first laboratories to use this method for anti-ageing applications.

What is Xpolar Technology?*

XPolar® technology, an imaging system, is a polarisation imaging system for measuring biological changes. Collagen fibres can be qualitatively observed between crossed polarisers as shown in Figure B. In this case, it is not possible to determine the quantity of possible changes in collagen amount. XPolar® technology allows measurement of polarisation changes through a dimensional number called KAMAX (Figure C).

J-DERMIST Increases the Quality of Support Fibres by up to 60% When Applied Regularly for 7 Days

The protocol of this test analysed with KAMAX technology involves topical application of 1% J-DERMIST to human skin explants from a 49-year-old donor every other day for 7 days. At the end of day 7, qualitative analysis of collagen fibres in the skin tissue is performed and it is concluded that the quality of fibre structures increases by up to 60%. In another in-vivo test, 28 days of use of 2% J-DERMIST is believed to reduce the effect of gravity on wrinkles. This test was conducted among 30 volunteers aged 41 to 68 years and the results are schematised using three-dimensional analysis devices. Analysis of the nasolabial fold (wrinkles around the nose) in sitting position (maximum gravity exposure) and lying position (minimum gravity exposure) was conducted to evaluate resistance to gravity. At the same time, the effect of gravity on tissue sagging was analysed along with the difference in volume of the nasolabial fold (wrinkles around the nose) between sitting and lying positions. At T0 and in sitting position, when wrinkle depths were at maximum level, after 28 days of J-DERMIST use, this rate showed a 7% reduction compared to baseline and placebo. The figure above shows the test results from baseline and day 28 when exposed to gravity and at points where gravity effect is minimal. Following this test using 2% J-DERMIST product, it was determined that the wrinkle depth at T28 (sitting position/where gravity effect is maximum) was significantly less than the depth at T0 (lying position/where gravity effect is minimum). Berk Hakkı Gazioğlu Sales Manager - Cosmetics Department Arerko Kimya Sanayi ve Ticaret A.Ş.