EPİBİYOM BEAUTY™

A New Era in Skin Health with DSMThe Visible and Invisible Aspects of Skin Health and Beauty

Conditions such as dryness, oiliness and redness on the skin are quickly noticeable and felt. Conversely, the microorganisms that closely influence this condition and inhabit the skin surface are completely invisible. DSM has aimed to demonstrate through a very recent clinical study both the visible and invisible aspects—that is, the complex relationship between normal, dry and oily skin conditions and their skin microbiomes.

Three Known BacteriaStaphylococcus Epidermidis—An Effective Structure for Healthy SkinIt Bears

• It contributes to the maintenance of skin health. • The metabolic byproducts of Staphylococcus Epidermidis play a role in keeping skin hydrated and improving rough texture. • Because it produces superoxide dismutase, it is anti-aging and has skin protective properties. • It has anti-inflammatory effects.

Corynebacterium Kroppendstedtii—An Effective Bacterium in Controlling Skin Redness

• It is a lipophilic (sebum-loving) bacterium and is part of normal skin microbiota. • It increases with advancing age and skin redness. • An increase is observed with rosacea (rose disease).

Cutibacterium Acnes—Friend or Foe?

• Previously known as propionibacterium acnes. • It is particularly dominant in the facial area and is therefore an important guardian for the skin. • It has adopted a lipophilic and anaerobic lifestyle. • It affects sebum production. • Certain strains are closely related to acne. The Current State of Microbiome Research DSM is one of the important players in microbiome gut health solutions and offers a wide range of products to the probiotic, prebiotic and enzyme sector. In the entire discovery process of gut microbiome, DSM has specialized in all stages: from modeling to biostatistical analysis, from genome sequencing to large-scale microorganism production. DSM is recognized as an industry leader in epidermal science and therefore combines its knowledge and experience in microbiology and epidermal science to provide new and innovative skin microbiome solutions.

Skin Microbiome—A New Level in Skin Health and Beauty

Like the gut, skin also has a unique microbiota composed of millions of bacteria, fungi and viruses. While the benefits of a balanced gut microbiome have been known for a long time, in skincare there is a widespread perception that bacteria must be removed from the skin. This view is now beginning to change in scientific circles, and it is increasingly believed that the skin microbiome is a primary factor in skin appearance and that it is the cause of skin conditions rather than creating symptoms.

Epibiome Beauty™

The relationship between the epidermis and skin microbiome has an important place in holistic beauty applications. Although the importance of this relationship has not yet been fully understood, DSM has successfully combined these two complementary approaches in a unique way. By synthesizing epidermal and microbiome research, Epibiome Beauty™ deeply examines the connection between skin barrier and microbiome, and discovers new ways every day to maintain, strengthen and renew the foundation of healthy skin.

Skin Microbiome Research—Clinical Studies

Through a new and multicenter clinical study, DSM has demonstrated that changes in certain important physiological skin parameters (sebum and TEWL—transepidermal water loss) are caused by changes in the skin microbiome. In DSM's portfolio, OXY 229 PF, SYN-UP® and ALPAFLOR® ALP®-SEBUM, which are established actives with proven effects on skin, were tested on normal, dry and oily skin types respectively and yielded highly beneficial results. To compare the microfloras of normal, dry and oily skin types, 16s rRNA gene analysis was performed on the forehead and cheek areas in six healthy female volunteers. The data obtained were analyzed using next-generation sequencing technology and the resulting data were compared with a DNA database used for taxonomic classification. More than 200 bacterial species were identified: predominantly Cutibacterium Acnes, Staphylococcus Epidermidis and Corynebacterium Kroppendstedtii.

Findings Obtained

• In normal skin type, OXY 229 PF reduced Corynebacterium Kroppendstedtii. • In dry skin type, SYN-UP® increased Staphylococcus Epidermidis and reduced Corynebacterium Kroppendstedtii. • In oily skin type, ALPAFLOR® ALP®-SEBUM reduced Cutibacterium Acnes.

Graph 1: Bacterial species distribution before application in normal, dry and oily skin types

Epibiome Beauty® for Normal SkinOXY 229 PF—Revitalizes Dull-Looking Skin

OXY 229 PF is a skin active containing Saccharomyces lysate, Valine, Threonine, Glutamic acid, Glycine and Disodium succinate. OXY 229 PF is an active obtained from natural sources at 98% and contains powerful mitochondrial respiration activators, thereby increasing oxygen uptake by 750%. It revitalizes the skin, gives it a fresh appearance, smooths it and prevents skin redness.

Epibiome Beauty® In Vivo Effect

OXY 229 PF reduces sebum levels and minimizes Corynebacterium Kroppendstedtii levels, preventing facial redness. After just 1 week of use, it reduces sebum in the cheek area by 5%, while after 28 days of use it reduces sebum by 7%. Graph 2: Bacterial species distribution in different skin types after application of OXY 229 PF on normal skin, SYN-UP® on dry skin and ALPAFLOR® ALP®-SEBUM on oily skin for 28 days

Graph 3: Sebum level in the cheek area after 7 and 28 days of use of OXY 229 PF

After 1 week of use of OXY 229 PF, it reduced Corynebacterium Kroppendstedtii by 65% in the cheek area, and after 28 days of use by 62%.

Epibiome Beauty® for Dry Skin: SYN-UP® Fights the Signs of Dry Skin

SYN-UP® is a dipeptide derivative with the INCI name Benzylsulfonyl-D-Seryl homophenylalanine amidobenzamide acetate. SYN-UP® at 1% usage reduces urokinase activity by 97% and plasmin activity by 41%. It visibly improves the appearance of dry skin and significantly reduces the burning and stinging sensation associated with dry skin. It works to reverse the negative effects of environmental factors on the skin. It is ideal for prebiotic skincare products. Graph 4: Corynebacterium Kroppendstedtii level in the cheek area after 7 and 28 days of use of OXY 229 PF

Epibiome Beauty® In Vivo Effect

SYN-UP® combats dry skin and skin redness by increasing Staphylococcus Epidermidis and reducing Corynebacterium Kroppendstedtii. The use of 1% SYN-UP® on the dry skin cheek area for 1 week provided 16% improvement in skin barrier and 17% after 28 days.

Graph 5: TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss) Measurement after 7 and 28 days of use of SYN-UP®

Staphylococcus Epidermidis Measurement

After 1 week of 1% use of SYN-UP® on the dry skin cheek area, the Staphylococcus Epidermidis level increased by 100%, and after 28 days of use by 175%.

Graph 6: Staphylococcus Epidermidis Level after 7 and 28 days of use of SYN-UP®

Corynebacterium Kroppendstedtii Measurement

After 1 week of use of SYN-UP® on the dry skin cheek area, the Corynebacterium Kroppendstedtii level was reduced by 11%, and after 28 days of use by 72%.

Corynebacterium Kroppendstedtii (Percentage)

Graph 7: Corynebacterium Kroppendstedtii Level after 7 and 28 days of use of SYN-UP®

Epibiome Beauty® for Oily Skin: ALPAFLOR® ALP®-SEBUM Beautiifies Skin by Controlling Oily Skin

ALPAFLOR® ALP®-SEBUM is a standardized extract rich in Oenothein B and flavonoids obtained from a rare plant grown in the high-altitude Alpine mountains. It reduces 5-α-reductase, an important enzyme that plays a role in sebum production. It significantly reduces Interleukin-1α and Interleukin-8, which are epidermal pro-inflammatories. 91% of female volunteers using ALPAFLOR® ALP®-SEBUM reported positive changes in their skin, and 18% observed that their pores became smaller. It is ideal for use in skincare products designed for oily and combination skin and in prebiotic skincare products.

Epibiome Beauty® In Vivo Effect

ALPAFLOR® ALP®-SEBUM controls oily skin by reducing sebum and reducing Cutibacterium acnes level. ALPAFLOR® ALP®-SEBUM reduced sebum by 20% after just 1 week of use and by 22% after 28 days of use.

Graph 8: Sebum Level after 7 and 28 days of use of ALPAFLOR® ALP®-SEBUM

After just 1 week of use of ALPAFLOR® ALP®-SEBUM, Cutibacterium acnes was reduced by 11%, and after 28 days of use by 7%.

Graph 9: Cutibacterium Acnes Level after 7 and 28 days of use of ALPAFLOR® ALP®-SEBUM

*: Adapted from DSM's 'Epibiome Beauty™, The New Level of Skin Well-Being', 2019 brochure into Turkish. Compiled & Translated*: Burçak Alioğlu Technical Sales Manager Arkem Kimya