Dandruff Control on the Scalp

Dandruff Control on Scalp Dandruff is a common skin condition affecting the scalp, characterized by flaking of the scalp skin, itching and redness. Though appearing minor, white flakes falling onto the shoulders can create a soiled appearance on dark clothing, sometimes becoming embarrassing. Oily or dry scalp, age, gender, skin sensitivity to hair care products, and certain internal and external factors causing dandruff are all important considerations for consumers in scalp care, equal to skin care itself. Anti-dandruff actives used for cosmetic purposes have no specific regulation in Europe (EU). For some active substances, the annexes to the European Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 mention anti-dandruff applications, though listing limits usage or may result from the active being additionally listed as a preservative. These actives are used in cosmetic claim products in many countries including the EU, while in the United States (FDA monograph) and Japan (QD) they are subject to specific regulations. Common anti-dandruff actives with significant presence and widespread use in the cosmetics sector are Zinc Pyrithione, Climbazole and Piroctone Olamine. All these actives show efficacy against Malassezia spp. species, reducing dandruff formation on the scalp. However, according to new regulations, Zinc Pyrithione will no longer be permitted for use in Europe from 1 March 2022. Additionally, multifunctional products in the Symrise portfolio for dandruff control, such as Crinipan® PMC green, SymClariol®, and SymOcide® C, represent different alternatives for dandruff control.

Product Information

Crinipan® AD (600306) Climbazole, used for many years in the cosmetics sector, demonstrates efficacy against Malassezia yeast, the primary cause of dandruff, preventing dandruff formation on the scalp. It also reduces excess oiliness of the scalp. It is stable against heat and sunlight; suitable for use in clear, colorless and pearlescent hair care products. INCI: Climbazole Appearance/Form: White, powder Recommended usage level: max. 2.0%* Usable pH: 4-7 Solubility: surfactants, certain essential oils, alcohols and glycols *According to EU cosmetics regulations, anti-dandruff actives can be used up to 2% in shampoos. Usage level in leave-on products is 0.2%. Comparative clinical tests of Crinipan AD with Zinc Pyrithione and Piroctone Olamine are detailed below.

1. In-vivo Efficacy Test (I)

The objective of the test was visual assessment and efficacy comparison of dandruff intensity by experts in a study using shampoos containing 0.5% Climbazole and 0.5% Zinc Pyrithione. For each shampoo, 15 subjects used an active-free shampoo for 2 weeks. Following this, active-containing shampoo was used for 6 weeks, with dandruff quantity determined on days 0, 10, 21 and 42. For the following 3 weeks, subjects used placebo shampoo. Assessment scores: 1-6 (1 = no dandruff, 6=excessive dandruff present) Climbazole and Zinc Pyrithione at equal concentrations (0.5%) showed similar efficacy. When shampoo use was discontinued on day 42, dandruff quantity was observed to begin increasing again.

2. In-vivo Efficacy Test (II)

The objective of the test was visual assessment and efficacy comparison of dandruff intensity by experts in a study using shampoos containing 0.7% Climbazole and 0.7% Piroctone Olamine. 14 subjects were used for each shampoo. Subjects used an active-free shampoo for 2 weeks, thereby establishing baseline dandruff intensity on the scalp. Subsequently, subjects used active-containing shampoos every other day, with dandruff intensity assessed by experts at 2 and 4 weeks. Assessment scores: 0-5 (0 = no dandruff, 5=excessive dandruff present) Climbazole and Piroctone Olamine at equal concentrations (0.7%) showed similar efficacy. Significant reduction in dandruff intensity was observed following regular use.

Crinipan® ADS (705375)

Crinipan® ADS, a liquid mixture containing Climbazole, provides a 2-in-1 solution with both anti-dandruff and preservative properties. Due to its liquid form, the product is also suitable for cold processes; suitable for use in clear and pearlescent, rinse-off and leave-on personal care products. INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Climbazole, Decylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol Appearance/Form: Clear to light yellow, liquid Recommended usage level: 1.5% Usable pH : 4-7 Solubility: surfactants, certain essential oils, alcohols and glycols

Preservative Efficacy Test

The 1.5% Crinipan® ADS-containing shampoo tested for preservative efficacy eliminated tested bacteria, yeast and fungi within 2 days. Crinipan® ADS stands out in formulations not only as an anti-dandruff active but also for its preservative properties. Due to its Climbazole content, efficacy tests conducted with Crinipan AD can additionally serve as reference.

Crinipan® PMC Green (263045)

Crinipan® PMC green is a next-generation, naturally-sourced, modern innovative active with a novel mechanism of action. It is the ester of caprylic acid and propanediol. While caprylic acid exhibits antifungal properties, the resulting new molecule Propanediol caprylate (Crinipan® PMC green) eliminates the unpleasant odor of caprylic acid and acts on scalp areas where Malassezia species are present, preventing dandruff formation and visibly reducing existing dandruff. Due to its liquid form, the product is suitable for cold processes; suitable for use in clear and pearlescent rinse-off and leave-on personal care products. INCI: Propanediol Caprylate Appearance/Form : Clear to light yellow, liquid Recommended usage level : 0.5 – 1.0% Usable pH : 4.5-9 Solubility : cosmetic esters, mineral oil, glycols, alcohol. N.O.I (Natural origin index) = 1 In addition to dandruff control, the product supports healthy scalp microbiome, reduces sebum levels and positively influences sensory perception in hair care formulations.

In-vivo Test - Visible Effect on Scalp

Prior to test initiation, volunteers used a conditioning shampoo for 14 days, after which (one group of volunteers used active-containing shampoo, another group used placebo shampoo) 0.5% Crinipan PMC green-containing SLS-based shampoo was used 3 times weekly for 30 days. During each application, the shampoo was left on the hair for 3 minutes. At the end of the test, dandruff intensity on the scalp was evaluated by dermatologists. Assessment scores = 1-5 (1=no dandruff, 5= excessive dandruff amount)   With Crinipan PMC green use, dandruff intensity was observed to decrease from 5 to 2.5 at 30 days.

SymClariol® (344028)

Decylene glycol, through its multifunctional properties, inhibits Malassezia activity that causes dandruff, helps reduce dandruff on the scalp, enhances the efficacy of preservatives, and is suitable for use in personal care products. INCI: Decylene glycol Appearance/Form : White waxy, solid Recommended usage level : 0.1 – 1.0% Usable pH : 3-11 Solubility : cosmetic esters, mineral oil, glycols, alcohol.

In-vivo Efficacy Test - I

A clinical study was conducted on 20 subjects aged 23-55 years with intense dandruff on the scalp. Prior to test initiation, subjects used shampoo for 2 weeks. Subsequently, a leave-on moisturizer containing 1% SymClariol was applied once daily for 4 weeks. At the end of this period, subjects used shampoo again for 2 weeks and dandruff intensity was evaluated by two experts at weeks 0, 2, 4 and 6.

In-vivo Efficacy Test – II - SymClariol and Crinipan AD Combination

The clinical study was conducted at the test institute. 13 subjects aged 29-45 years did not use any products on the scalp for 48 hours prior to test initiation. During the 6-week test period, subjects applied the designated test shampoo 3 times weekly. Dandruff intensity was evaluated by experts at test initiation and on days 14, 28 and 42.

References

[1] Symrise AG (2022); Dandruff Control – Simply Cleaner Scalp, Available at https://www.symselect.com/dandruff-control. [2] Romeu, X., Genrich, F., Pillai, R., López, M., (2015). EP3364938B1, Mixtures Comprising Climbazole. [3] Borda, L.J., Wikramanayake, T.C. (2015) Seborrheic Dermatitis and Dandruff: A Comprehensive Review. J. Clin. Investig. Dermatol. 3 (2). [4] US Food&Drug Administration (FDA) (2021); https://www.fda.gov/drugs/status-otcrulemakings/rulemaking-history-otc-dandruff-seborrheic-dermatitis-and psoriasisdrugproducts. [5] Rannou, E. (2015) Guidebook for Exporting/Importing Cosmetics to Japan, EU-Japan Centre for Industrial Cooperation, Tokyo; Available at https://www.eu japan.eu/sites/default/files/publications/docs/cosmetics-japan.pdf (2021, Jan). [6] Findley K., Oh J., Yang J., Conlan S., Deming C., Meyer J.A., Schoenfeld D., Nomicos E., Park M.; NIH Intramural Sequencing Center Comparative Sequencing Program, Kong H.H., Segre J.A. (2013). Topographic diversity of fungal and bacterial communities in human skin; Nature 498 (7454): 367-70. [7] Mayser, P. (2015). Medium chain fatty acid ethyl esters – activation of antimicrobial effects by Malassezia enzymes; Mycoses 58 (4): 215-219. [8] Koch, C., Pesaro, M., Schmaus, G., Mayser, P. (2020). Medium chain fatty acid esters – optimizing their efficacy as anti-Malassezia agents. Mycoses 63 (7): 704-710. [9] Genrich, F., Koch, C., Lange, S., Bugdahn, N., Schmaus, G. (2020). Next Generation Dandruff Control; SOFW-Journal 146 8-13. [10] Genrich, F., Nordzieke, S. (2021). Shaping the Future with Green Dandruff Control; Euro Cosmetics 29, 16-18. [11] Genrich, F., Koch, Ch., Massironi, M., Thomaz, F. (2021). Propanediol Caprylate: Shifting the Microbiome, Sebum Levels and Classic Approach to Dandruff; Cosmetics & Toiletries Vol 136; No. 6, 44-51. [12] Mayser, P., Pesaro, M., Schmaus, G., Grieger, J., Bugdahn, N. (2019). WO2020160741A1, Fatty acid esters as anti Malassezia agents. [13] Koch, C., Nordzieke, S., Grieger, J., Bugdahn, N., Genrich, F., Lange, S. (2020). WO2020160905A1, Antimicrobial activity of fatty acid esters and combinations thereof. [14] Pesaro, M., Lange, S., Kohlen, R. (2020). WO2020160904A1, Active agents for skin and hair care with physicochemical modifying properties. [15] Pesaro, M., Lange, S., Kohlen, R., Koch, C. (2019). WO2020160742A1, Active agents for skin and hair care with sensory modifying properties. [16] Genrich, F., Lange, S., Nordzieke, S., Bruncke, S. (2021). WO2021224509A2, Antimicrobial combinations. [17] Schmaus, G., Lange, S. (2018). EP2063853B1, Use of C10-C14-alkenediols in the preparation of a composition for the prophylaxis and/or treatment of Malassezia-induced dandruff formation and compositions comprising C10-C14-alkenediols. Tuğba Bayazıt Technical Application Specialist Africa, Middle East, Turkey Team Leader Symrise Dr. Florian Genrich Senior Global Product Manager Symrise