Hydrophilic Resin-Based Silicone Elastomer Gel in Cosmetics

Hydrophilic Resin-Based Silicone Elastomer Gel for Colour Cosmetics and Skincare Products:

Belsil® REG 1103 B

Silicone elastomer gels are commonly used in premium personal care products. In a cosmetic product, the presence of silicone elastomer gel can be identified by searching for "dimethicone crosspolymer" in the ingredient list. Upon detailed examination of the chemical structure of silicone elastomer gels, these products can be described as cross-linked silicone polymers swollen in a solvent. Cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicones of varying viscosities and oil-based volatiles can be used as solvents. The luxurious and silky skin feel that silicone elastomer gels provide to cosmetic formulations is among their most well-known benefits. On the other hand, resin-based silicone elastomer gels can provide additional benefits to cosmetic product formulations such as water repellency, long-lasting durability, film formation and wrinkle reduction. Upon examination of cosmetic product launches over the past 10 years using multiple sources, we observe that the use of silicone elastomer gels in cosmetic product formulations increased threefold between 2010 and 2019. BELSIL® REG 1103 B is a newly developed resin-based silicone elastomer gel composed of resin-cross-linked silicone polymers, a non-volatile, unmodified dimethicone and a sugar-based silicone polymer. It is a colourless, clear to slightly hazy product. Unlike a classic silicone elastomer gel, BELSIL® REG 1103 B offers durability and film-forming properties to users thanks to the silicone resin contained in its chemical structure. Additionally, with its water-compatible and film-forming properties, it offers completely new formulation options for cosmetic manufacturers. Furthermore, D4, D5 and D6 levels, which have been closely monitored by formulators recently due to regulatory changes, meet expectations and are below 0.1%.   [caption id="attachment_131933" align="aligncenter"] (Photo: Wacker Chemie AG)[/caption] Silicone elastomer gels generally do not mix with water. The resin-based silicone elastomer gel newly developed by Wacker, BELSIL® REG 1103 B, however, mixes easily with water. As can be seen in the photograph below, when mixed with water, a creamy texture characterised by a full, homogeneous feel can be obtained. BELSIL® REG 1103 B product has the INCI name <Dimethicone, Dimethicone/ Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer and Caprylyl Dimethicone Ethoxy Glucoside>. Upon examination of the raw materials used in the product formulation, Dimethicone Ethoxy Glucoside, being an oil-based emulsifier, provides the benefit of increasing water absorption and compatibility. On the other hand, the dimethicone content, being a non-volatile solvent, offers longer play-time and a rich feel. Finally, Dimethicone/Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer provides a luxurious and rich feel, film formation, water and heat resistance benefits. With its water-loving structure, BELSIL® REG 1103 B can be easily mixed with water, enabling the production of many cosmetic formulations with a creamy, homogeneous texture where pigments do not precipitate. BELSIL® REG 1103 B allows for simple yet well-made formulations and, thanks to the sugar-based emulsifier contained in its chemical structure, can also improve the shelf life of poorly stable emulsions. Another product characteristic is the water-break effect: Water absorbed during the formulation process is released in the form of small droplets during application and helps the skin feel fresh and light. The product also has a thixotropic effect, meaning that when stirring is applied to the product, viscosity decreases over time and the product becomes more flowable. BELSIL® REG 1103 B also has the ability to diffuse light, similar to the effect created by a soft-focus lens. In this way, it performs well in visibly concealing contours and wrinkles. In the image below, you see 2 different pictures. The upper picture shows no product applied and you can clearly see the black/white lines. In the lower picture, BELSIL® REG 1103 B product has been applied as a thin layer and the lines have disappeared. Furthermore, by measuring refractive indices, you can obtain a transparent gel with Belsil REG 1103 B; for example, while a formula with 20% water content or 20% glycerin content gives an opaque appearance, a 20% water-glycerin mixture (at 49-51 percentage ratio) gives a transparent appearance. BELSIL® REG 1103 B increases the water and transfer resistance of cosmetic formulations, enabling their effects to last longer: lipsticks remain long-lasting, other types of makeup retain their colour for longer and sunscreens continue to provide reliable protection even after swimming.  

Özge Yüksel Özel Technical Manager Cosmetics and Detergents IMCD Türkiye