Gluconolactone: A Natural PHA for Sensitive Skin

Skin care uses Gluconolactone, one of the most common PHAs (polyhydroxy acids), which works similarly to AHAs and BHAs (such as glycolic, lactic and salicylic acids) to create a peeling effect on the skin. The key difference is that, compared to traditional skin acids, it does not cause skin sensitivity and delivers high moisture to the skin. Gluconolactone is a peeling acid that can be safely used on sensitive skin and provides a smoother skin appearance.

What Are Organic Acids? – AHA, BHA and PHA

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are keratolytic, therefore they break down the thickened stratum corneum and the adhesive bonds between keratinocytes. These are lactic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid. Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) are more soluble in oil, which means they penetrate deeper into the skin. In cosmetics, the term beta hydroxy acid specifically refers to salicylic acid, which is used in some acne treatments. Poly Hydroxy Acids (PHAs) have much larger molecules, so they cannot penetrate as deeply as AHAs and BHAs. They work on the skin surface without damaging the more sensitive underlying layers. The commonly used PHA is gluconolactone content.

A Gentle Exfoliating Peeling Acid

PHAs belong to the "new generation" of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs). They have similar benefits to AHAs but are gentler, making them suitable for sensitive skin types. Gluconolactone gently modulates the natural keratinization process through exfoliation, cellular stimulation to promote renewal, and helps the skin renew itself in a healthy manner.

PHA, AHA and BHA Are Less Aggressive

Gluconolactone is very well tolerated by the skin and does not alter stratum corneum morphology. Thus it allows for skin repair without damaging the skin barrier and deeper layers like traditional acids do. Compared to salicylic acid, Gluconolactone is easily soluble in water and does not lower pH significantly when not used in high concentrations (30%). It also helps maintain the skin's pH and, with regular use, supports the preservation of healthy skin and restores the skin's pH balance.

Multi-Functional Ingredient for Skin Care

• Suitable for sensitive and atopic skin. • A gentle peeling and exfoliating agent. • Has anti-aging properties. • An effective moisturizing agent. • Has anti-acne benefits. • Increases preservative effectiveness. • Has chelating properties. Gluconolactone is one of the few exfoliants that can be used by almost everyone, even those with easily irritated skin. It also works well with most active ingredients, including vitamin C, niacinamide and peptides, so it is easy to incorporate into your existing skin care routine. Dr. Marchbein says, "Even retinoid users can include gluconolactone in their routine on nights when they are not using their retinoids." If you want to develop a formula that will improve skin tone and texture without causing skin sensitivity, Gluconolactone is definitely worth trying.   Sultan Ergün Sales Manager, Personal Care Sales Manager, Personal Care Barentz Food and Chemistry Trading Ltd.