Floraesters K-20W® Jojoba

Floraesters K-20W® Jojoba: A Natural and Multifunctional Ingredient  

Summary

Floraesters K-20W® Jojoba [INCI: Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (and) Water (Aqua)], a unique oil-free emollient derived from jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis), serves multiple functions across numerous finished product categories. The film-forming and substantive nature of hydrolyzed jojoba esters makes Floraesters K-20W Jojoba an ideal candidate for rinse-off and leave-on products intended to deliver long-lasting effects. A series of clinical randomized and controlled blinded test studies were conducted under controlled environmental conditions with Institutional Review Board (IRB) approval. The data demonstrated that Floraesters K-20W Jojoba could provide the following formulation benefits: water resistance in sunscreen applications; extended color longevity in self-tanning applications; tightness, elasticity, and reduced appearance of enlarged pores in facial mask applications; and increased skin hydration across each of these categories due to its synergistic relationship with glycerin. Floraesters K-20W Jojoba also enhances conditioning effects in rinse-off hair care applications. These studies confirm that Floraesters K-20W Jojoba is a multifunctional ingredient beneficial for any formulator.  

Sunscreens

Objective:

To determine the water resistance potential between a sunscreen containing and not containing Floraesters K-20W Jojoba.

Study Design:

Minimal Erythema Dose (MED) is the lowest UV dose required to produce perceptible erythema. MED was measured for each subject and used to determine appropriate UV exposure during testing of sunscreen formulations. Static SPF value was calculated using the MED on unprotected skin (MEDu) versus the MED on sun-protected skin (MEDp) for each subject using the following equation: MEDp/MEDu. For the 40-minute immersion test, subjects sat with the test area immersed in a water bath for two 20-minute immersion periods prior to UV exposure, and SPF was calculated in the same manner as above.1  

Subject:

n = 3 (male and female)

Results:

After 40 minutes of water immersion, the sunscreen formulation containing 5% Floraesters K-20W Jojoba had 28% higher SPF and maintained an SPF of 15 (not observed in the control formulation). (Figure 1)   [caption id="attachment_143693" align="aligncenter"] Figure 1. Static and 40-Minute Water Immersion SPF.[/caption]  

Self-Tanning Products

Objective:

To determine the potential of Floraesters K-20W Jojoba to extend skin color longevity when included in a self-tanning formulation containing 5% dihydroxyacetone (DHA).

Study Design:

A single application of each self-tanning product was applied to randomized sites on the lower back of subjects. Melanin measurements (skin tone) were taken using a Mexameter MX 182 at baseline and at 24, 48, 72, and 96 hours after self-tanning application.2

Subject:

n = 15 (male and female)

Results:

Floraesters K-20W Jojoba provided better preservation of skin color compared to the control base formulation of 5% DHA-containing self-tanning product at measurements at 24, 48, 72, and 96 hours. All test studies containing Floraesters K-20W Jojoba produced statistically significantly (p<0.05) higher percentage change in skin color compared to the control formulation at 72 and 96 hour time points. (Figure 2)   [caption id="attachment_143694" align="aligncenter"] Figure 2. Color Protection[/caption]  

Shampoos / Hair Conditioners

Objective:

To determine the softness effect provided by Floraesters K-20W Jojoba and Floraesters K-100 Jojoba to hair measured by wet combing force.

Study Design:

A single application of each shampoo or hair conditioner was applied to damaged (i.e., bleached twice) hair swatches. Combing force measurements were taken before and after application using a Test Resources Q Series (100Q) Universal Testing Machine.3

Subject:

n = 3 (Hair swatches)

Results:

Rinse-off shampoo containing 2.5% Floraesters K-20W Jojoba and hair conditioner containing 1% Floraesters K-100 Jojoba reduced wet combing force 22% and 34% more, respectively, compared to control base formulations (p<0.05); and resulted in a statistically significant (p<0.05) reduction in wet combing force. (Figure 3) [caption id="attachment_143696" align="aligncenter"] Figure 3. Wet Combing Force[/caption]

Paper Facial Masks

Objective:

To determine the potential of Floraesters K-20W Jojoba to increase skin elasticity and firmness and reduce the appearance of enlarged pores and fine lines when included in a facial (paper) mask formulation.

Study Design:

Subjects applied the facial mask once daily for two weeks. Skin firmness and elasticity measurements via Cutometer and fine line and enlarged pore counts via BTBP Clarity Pro Advanced and Facial Stage DM-34 were performed at baseline and after two weeks of product use.

Subject:

n = 16 (female)

Results:

The facial mask containing Floraesters K-20W Jojoba increased skin firmness and reduced pore size/fine line count to a statistically significant degree (p<0.05) compared to the control facial mask. (Figures 4 and 5)   [caption id="attachment_143697" align="aligncenter"] Figure 4. Enlarged Pores and Fine Line Counts[/caption]   [caption id="attachment_143699" align="aligncenter"] Figure 5. Skin Elasticity and Firmness[/caption]    

Increasing Skin Hydration

Objective:

To determine the potential of Floraesters K-20W Jojoba to increase skin moisture in finished product applications.

Study Design:

For sunscreens, toners (water-based), and self-tanning products, a single application of each finished product was applied to the outer leg of dry-legged subjects. Skin hydration measurements (via Corneometer CM 8252) were taken at baseline and at time points specified below. For facial masks, skin hydration measurements were taken two weeks before and after once-daily facial mask use.

Subject:

n = 15-20 (female)

Results:

Finished products containing Floraesters K-20W Jojoba increased skin hydration to a statistically significant degree (p<0.05) compared to finished products without it. (Figure 6)   [caption id="attachment_143701" align="aligncenter"] Figure 6. Skin Moisturization[/caption]  

Conclusions

Floraesters K-20W Jojoba is a multifunctional product effective in finished product applications across multiple areas and provides the following benefits: • Water resistance • Color protection (on skin and colored hair5) • Softness effect on hair (reduces combing force) • Increases skin elasticity and firmness • Reduces appearance of pore size and fine lines • Increases skin hydration • Improves barrier formation6   References / Footnotes 1. SPF testing was conducted according to the US FDA Final Rule; 21 CFR Parts 201 and 310 by Suncare Research Laboratories, LLC (Winston Salem, NC). 2. Mexameter, Cutometer, and Corneometer are products of Courage + Khazaka Electronic GmbH, (Köln, Germany). 3. The Test Resources Q Series (100Q) Universal Testing Machine is a product of TestResources, Inc (Shakopee, MN). 4. The BTBP Clarity Pro Advanced and Facial Stage DM-3 are products of BrighTex Bio-Photonics, LLC (San Jose, CA). 5. See Claim Sheets CS15-074, CS15-075, and CS15-076. 6. See Claim Sheet CS11-035.     Pınar Yeşim Doğan Technical Sales Manager - Personal Care Univar Solutions