Barentz's New Anti-Frizz Product with an Umbrella Effect on Hair: ALLINEA

Barentz's Anti-Frizz, Umbrella Effect Hair Product: ALLINEA Hair can be straight, wavy or curly. These variations are genetically determined, relating to the cross-section of the hair shaft and the degree of internal curvature. Regardless of hair shape, hair shafts containing 80% proteins and other elements (fats, water and pigments) consist of three sections: cuticle, cortex and medulla. The cuticle is the outermost part of the hair shaft and is the main barrier preventing chemical substances from penetrating into the interior of the hair shaft. It is also responsible for surface properties of hair such as shine. The medulla is located at the center of the hair shaft and affects hair shine. The cortex is the intermediate layer where chemical transformations occur that result in straightening and curling. It comprises the largest section of the hair shaft, responsible for elasticity, flexibility and physical strength. It consists of alpha-keratin macrofibrils aligned in the fiber direction and microfibrils derived from the interaction of alpha-keratin polypeptide chains as shown in Figure 1. [caption id="attachment_129212" align="aligncenter"] Figure 1: Capillary structure formed by cuticle, cortex, and medulla[/caption] Alpha-keratin contains a high proportion of disulfide bonds (S-S) from the amino acid cysteine, which are the main bonds that preserve the strength and shape of the hair shaft. In addition to disulfide bonds, other intramolecular interactions, including hydrogen, hydrophobic and ionic or salt bonds shown in Figure 2, contribute to the structural stability and durability of hair shafts. [caption id="attachment_129213" align="aligncenter"] Figure 2: Chemical bonds present in the hair fiber (hydrophobic bonds, hydrogen bonds, ionic or salt bonds, and disulfide bonds)[/caption] To make hair smoother and less voluminous, it is necessary to increase the internal radius of curvature of the hair. This increase can be achieved by temporarily altering the conformation of the keratin structure without breaking disulfide bonds, a process known as temporary realignment. With the aim of reducing hair volume and frizz as well as promoting temporary realignment of hair shafts, Chemyunion developed Allinea, a synergistic combination of alpha hydroxy acids, ethyl esters, disaccharide, coconut triglycerides and lignin, the reuse of a biopolymer.

Mechanism of Action:

The alpha hydroxy acids present in the composition of Allinea facilitate the breaking of weaker chemical interactions in hair such as hydrogen bonds, ionic and hydrophobic bonds due to high heat, humidity and the physical effects of drying or straightening treatments. This temporary breaking transforms the alpha-helix structure into a beta-pleated sheet, increases the internal curvature angle of the hair shaft and repositions new hydrogen bonds linked with alpha hydroxy acids between polypeptide chains, which is reversible with water movement as shown in Figure 3.7-9. [caption id="attachment_129214" align="aligncenter"] Figure 3: Alpha-helix structure and a beta-pleated sheet of keratin.[/caption] Additionally, Allinea contains trehalose, ethyl esters, coconut triglycerides and lignosulfonate, a plant-based lignin-derived biopolymer. The synergistic effect of the components provides protection of keratin from protein denaturation, especially under drying and thermal stress conditions, by creating a hydrophobic film, reducing the effect of water on hair and closing cuticles.

Efficacy Tests:

Standard hair swatches were washed with shampoo and one received placebo while the other received a leave-in conditioner containing 5% Allinea. Hair swatches were then straightened 10 times (220 °C). Following treatments, swatches were exposed to 70% relative humidity (RH) for 12 hours. Subsequently, volume and frizz measurements were performed using polarization imaging through fiber orientation measurement on three hair swatches before application (T0), immediately after application (PT), 2 hours (T2h), 6 hours (T6h) and 12 hours (T12h) after application (8 measurements per fiber). Results were evaluated by determining the reduction in total pixel count. The smaller the pixel count, the better Allinea's performance in reducing hair volume. As shown in Figure 4, Allinea reduced hair volume by 58.6% at 2 hours after application compared to untreated T0. [caption id="attachment_129220" align="aligncenter"] Figure 4: Evaluation of the volume of hair strands before treatment, after treatment with Allinea, and after exposure to high humidity (2h, 6h, and 12h).[/caption] By incorporating Allinea into your leave-in product lines, you can develop biologically-based, plant-derived formulas that reduce frizz and care for hair.