DSM'S INNOVATIVE ACTIVE INGREDIENT BEL-EVEN™ DEVELOPED FOR PERSONAL CARE

DSM'S INNOVATIVE ACTIVE INGREDIENT BEL-EVEN™ FOR PERSONAL CARE: PROTECTS SKIN FROM THE EFFECTS OF DAILY STRESS

Stress stemming from work or personal life has become part of our daily routine in today's 24/7 lifestyle. Skin naturally produces more cortisol hormone in response to stress, a process mediated by the enzyme 11ß-HSD1. The secretion of cortisol, a stress hormone, is a healthy and normal adaptation response for the body. However, when cortisol remains at elevated levels for prolonged periods, it becomes harmful to skin. Beyond stress management methods, cosmetic product consumers have shown increased interest and expectation for care products that address the negative effects of stress on skin—such as skin thinning, loss of elasticity, and weakening of the skin barrier. BEL-EVEN™ is a specially designed and patented cosmetic active ingredient recently developed by DSM, produced using a rational design approach. BEL-EVEN™ selectively inhibits the 11ß-HSD1 enzyme in vitro (Figure 1). BEL-EVEN™ is produced through an environmentally conscious and sustainable process. This special molecule plays an important role in the conversion of cortisone to cortisol, thereby minimizing the negative effects cortisol causes on skin.

Figure 1: BEL-EVEN™ inhibits the 11ß-HSD1 enzyme in vitro (on keratinocytes) and reduces cortisol levels in a dose-dependent manner.

Efficacy

In vivo, BEL-EVEN™ was tested over 3 months on 30 female volunteers (aged 50-65) and proven to increase skin elasticity and density. Application containing 1% BEL-EVEN™ increased facial skin elasticity by 15.7% compared to placebo over 12 weeks (Figure 2).

Figure 2: Change in skin elasticity at weeks 4 and 12 with 1% BEL-EVEN™ application compared to placebo.

BEL-EVEN™ helped statistically increase skin density after 4 and 12 weeks of use (Figure 3). The increase in skin density results from an increase in the protein content (primarily collagen tissue) in the dermis.

Figure 3: Statistically significant increase in skin density at weeks 4 and 12 with 1% BEL-EVEN™ application compared to placebo.

Reduction in the appearance of fine lines was observed in vivo with 1% BEL-EVEN™ application (Figure 4).

Figure 4: Images of volunteer no. 44's wrinkles at weeks 0, 4, and 12 following 12 weeks of 1% BEL-EVEN™ application.

  BEL-EVEN™'s protective effect on skin against stress has also been proven ex vivo. In skin stressed by UV radiation, the 11ß-HSD1 enzyme increased significantly. BEL-EVEN™ was observed to protect skin by blocking the Type III collagen damage caused by UV radiation through the 11ß-HSD1 enzyme (Figure 5).

Figure 5: BEL-EVEN™ increased Type III collagen levels in skin against stress caused by UV light.

Given its proven efficacy in addressing the negative effects of daily stress—a major concern today—on skin, BEL-EVEN™ is ideal for anti-stress, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, and skin elasticity-focused products. *: Adapted into Turkish from DSM's 'BEL-EVEN™ - A Unique Approach to Manage Your Daily Stress' brochure.   Prepared and Compiled By* Burçak Alioğlu Technical Sales Manager Arkem Kimya