Rising Trend: Antipollution (Hilal Durgun Çınar)

Air pollution can have a major impact on our health. Exposure to air pollution has been associated with a burning and stinging sensation, induction of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) expression. Skin plays an important role in our body's defense mechanism. However, normal skin struggles to cope with aggressive pollution that exceeds our protective capabilities. Any form of support given to the skin while fighting the harmful effects of gases and particles that cause air pollution is important. In protection against pollution, it is important to suppress the effects of irritation (burning and stinging sensation) and reactive oxygen species. For example, exhaust particles and smoke increase matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and negatively affect skin integrity. However, ingredients with antioxidant and/or anti-inflammatory effects can play an important role in skin protection. Our product range contains many potentially beneficial components in this regard.

Gamma-Oryzanol

Gamma-Oryzanol has been noted to have numerous protective properties (Henderson et al. 2012). It has antioxidant properties and has demonstrated tumor inhibitory effects (Kim et al. 2012a). Its protective effects against harmful chemicals present in the external environment were demonstrated in a test in mice where it reduced TPA-induced irritation. Additionally, cycloalkenol ferulate (an important component of gamma-oryzanol) prevented the tumor-promoting effect of TPA in mice initiated with 7,12-dimethylbenz[a]anthracene (Yasukawa et al. 1998). It has anti-allergy properties because it can bind IgE and prevent its attachment to receptors, and it suppresses mast cell degranulation (Oka et al., 2010). Many cosmetic ingredients protect skin against external factors and can affect interconnected mechanisms such as oxidation and irritation.

Avocadol

The anti-inflammatory effect of many oils is largely based on their unsaponifiable fraction and the sterols in this fraction. Avocadol is a product containing approximately 30% sterols. For example, two major sterols of Avocadol – beta-sitosterol and campesterol – suppressed PGE2 release in macrophage cells stimulated by lipopolysaccharide (Awad et al. 2004). A series of anti-inflammatory actions points to beta-sitosterol, which can reduce inflammation parameters in atopic dermatitis-like skin lesions in mice. Additionally, stigmasterol – another major sterol in Avocadol – shows potent anti-inflammatory activity. In a model using murine chondrocytes and human osteoarthritis chondrocytes treated with IL-1 beta, pre-treated stigmasterol resulted in decreased many parameters related to irritation and matrix degradation mediators (e.g., MMP-3) (Gabay et al., 2010). Of course, the effects of Avocadol on hydration and transepidermal water loss are associated with improved skin barrier function that provides better protection against external factors.

Tsubaki (Camellia) Oil

Tsubaki Oil can also provide interesting benefits in combating pollution. It has been shown that Tsubaki oil inhibited LPS-derived NO, PGE2 and TNF-alpha production in RAW264.7 cells (Kim et al. 2012b). Additionally, it has been demonstrated that Tsubaki oil suppressed TNF-alpha-induced MMP-1 secretion in human dermal fibroblast cells (Jung et al., 2007). This means important effects as an anti-aging substance. Tsubaki triterpene alcohols suggest TPA-induced ear irritation inhibition (Akihisa et al. 1997) and anti-tumor effects supporting TPA-induced Epstein-Barr virus early antigen (EBV-EA) induction (Akihisa et al. 2004).

Shea Oil

Shea Oil has a high content of unsaponifiable matter (approximately 5.5%). Triterpene alcohols are the most important components in the unsaponifiable shea oil fraction. Alpha-amyrin, beta-amyrin, lupeol and butyrospermol acetate and cinnamate isolated from shea oil inhibited TPA-induced irritation. Additionally, moderate inhibitory effects were observed on Epstein-Barr virus early antigen. Lupeol cinnamate showed a preventive effect in a carcinogenesis test initiated/elevated with 7,12-dimethylbenz[a]anthracene (DMBA)/TPA (Akihisa et al. 2010). In another study (Verma et al. 2012), shea oil extract was found to reduce lipopolysaccharide-derived nitric oxide, TNF-alpha, IL-1beta and IL-12 levels and prevent the appearance of pro-inflammatory enzymes in a test system; these provide information on the molecular basis of shea oil's anti-inflammatory effect.

Other Oils

In general, vegetable oils are used to protect a healthy skin barrier and can prevent flaky, unhealthy skin. Additionally, vegetable oils contain unsaponifiable components that exhibit a protective effect. For example, avocado oil may be an interesting choice when considering unsaponifiable matter in terms of its properties in this regard.

Tocomix L Series

Antioxidants play an important role in protection against harmful external factors. Tocopherols are important natural antioxidants derived from plants. Alpha tocopherol (Vitamin E) is well known. However, other tocopherols, such as gamma-tocopherol, are much more effective as antioxidants and have other health benefits as well. Our Tocomix L series, e.g. Tocomix L70-IP, contains high levels of gamma and delta-tocopherol and these are derived from soybeans. In other words, when high antioxidant activity is desired, the Tocomix L series is a preferred option for antioxidants – their health benefits also appear as an added benefit. Gamma-tocopherol and its main metabolite reduced PGE2 synthesis in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated RAW264.7 macrophages and IL-1-beta-treated A549 human epithelial cells. In contrast, alpha-tocopherol showed mild effects or no effects (Jiang et al. 2000). Additionally, gamma-tocopherol reduced systemic oxidative stress and inhibited monocyte responses to LPS without adverse health effects (Wiser et al. 2008). Our tocopherols are effective free radical scavengers and reduce the harmful effects of radicals on skin – for example, those related to aging. Because the mechanisms are interconnected, it is not surprising that antioxidant activity and anti-inflammatory effects occur together.

Rosemary Extract

Rosemary extracts have potent antioxidant properties. Carnosic acid, one of the most important antioxidant actives in rosemary essence, protects plasmid DNA from hydroxyl radicals generated by UV-A (Russo et al. 2009). Carnosic acid was found to prevent UV-induced MMP-1, MMP-3 and MMP-9 release in human fibroblast cell lines (Park et al. 2013). Water-soluble rosemary extract has been studied in human dermal fibroblasts for its benefits in preventing cutaneous photodamage. It prevented the UV-induced up-regulation of MMP-1 gene transcription (Martin et al. 2008). In addition to the benefits of antioxidant actives found in rosemary extract, ursolic acid can also be evaluated as an interesting component. Ursolic acid has protective, anti-inflammatory and MMP-suppressing efficacy. Phytrox Rosemary L4-CA deod is an oil-soluble rosemary extract containing carnosic acid at standard levels.