Use of Wild Oleaster Oil in Cosmetic Formulations

In this article, I will discuss cosmetic product formulations that we developed at Yeditepe University Cosmetic Research and Development Laboratories using sea buckthorn oil. In recent years, with increased interest in natural products, the use of plant-based oils in cosmetics has grown. These oils are typically obtained mechanically through extraction or cold pressing from plant parts such as seeds and fruits. The fatty acids found in plant-based oils form a barrier film layer on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss, thereby contributing to the preservation of epidermal hydration. Additionally, fatty acids protect the skin, promote stratum corneum renewal, and alleviate inflammation. Plant-based oils play an important role in the biological synthesis of cell membrane components and in the synthesis of prostaglandins, prostacyclines, thromboxanes, and leukotrienes. Sea buckthorn oil, one of the natural glycerides, possesses a rich chemical composition and unique properties.

Sea buckthorn oil is obtained through mechanical cold pressing of fruits or through extraction.

Recent scientific research has shown that sea buckthorn (Hippophaes rhamnoides) extract contains numerous active compounds such as antioxidants, vitamin C, flavonoids, polyphenols, and polysaccharides. The name Hippophaes was given in ancient times because horses fed on sea buckthorn had bright and beautiful skin (hippos – horse; phaos – bright). Today, while both the seeds and fruits of sea buckthorn are used in the food industry, they are also used in the medical field and particularly in the composition of cosmetic products. However, plant-based oils are unstable and sensitive to degradation in the presence of oxygen, light, and heat. For this reason, research is being conducted to protect them through encapsulation in various colloidal systems such as microcapsules, nanoemulsions, and liposomes. In our study, we formulated personal care products by encapsulating sea buckthorn oil in liposomal form. For this purpose, we used a Microfluidizer system. The operating principle of Microfluidizer systems is based on forcefully colliding liquid emulsified systems or solid matter dispersed in liquid with one another. This process occurs at high energy density within the interaction chamber. This makes possible: reduction of particle size; cell disruption and emulsification. The entire product is obtained uniformly, continuously, and under the same processing conditions and operates in a reproducible manner with the following results: Small particle or droplet size (typically submicron); uniform particle or droplet size (low polydispersity index); fully scalable process and continuous operation. As a result of the study, 93% of molecules in the encapsulated sea buckthorn extract were reduced to 314 nm in size. The anti-aging cream we prepared using this extract showed no loss of stability over 90 days at room temperature and at 40°C. Hülya Dağöttüren Biochemistry Specialist - M.B.A. Yeditepe University Medical Device and Cosmetic R&D Production Coordinator