SOME DEFINITIONS IN COSMETOLOGY SCIENCE

DEFINITIONS AND FORMULATION DYNAMICS IN COSMETOLOGY SCIENCE

According to the Cosmetics Law No. 5324 dated 24/3/2005 of the Ministry of Health, cosmetic products are defined as "all preparations or substances prepared for application to various external parts of the human body such as the epidermis, nails, hair, scalp, lips and external genital organs, as well as to teeth and oral mucosa, whose sole or primary purpose is to cleanse these parts, impart fragrance, alter their appearance and/or correct and/or protect body odours and/or maintain them in good condition." This group includes creams, emulsions, lotions, gels and oils for the skin, masks, foundations, powders, perfumes, colognes, bath and shower products, hair removers, deodorants and antiperspirants, hair care products, hair dyes, products used for waving, straightening and setting hair, hair cleansers, conditioning and care products, products for combing and styling, shaving products, products used in facial and eye makeup and makeup removal, products prepared for application to the lips, oral and dental care products, nail care and decorative products, personal hygiene products produced for external application to external genital organs, products for sun tanning, products used to give a tanned appearance to the skin without sun exposure, products used to lighten skin tone, and products used against skin wrinkles. Dermocosmetic (cosmeceutical) products were first used by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in 1946 to describe certain products that lacked therapeutic properties but had a different composition from classical cosmetics. To clarify the concept of dermocosmetic products with examples: Shampoos are among the most widely used cosmetic products in the world, with their primary purpose being to cleanse hair. Additionally, anti-dandruff products for the scalp are classified as drugs because their intended use is to treat the causative agent of dandruff. Shampoos developed against dandruff have both cosmetic and drug properties and are therefore dermocosmetics. Cosmeceuticals can also be defined as "substances and products that achieve desired cosmetic results through physiological effects, positively affect the structure and functions of skin and skin-related formations, and are claimed to possess biological activity." Some products may fit both cosmetic and drug definitions. This stems from the product's ability to be used for both purposes. In cases where a product has multiple functions, regardless of whether they are primary or secondary, the product must be subject to higher-level regulations, namely pharmaceutical regulations. The term nutricosmetic is a combination of the words food and cosmetic. The purpose of nutricosmetics is the same as that of cosmetic and dermocosmetic products. Nutricosmetic products are topical and oral agents that improve skin appearance and are typically combined for synergistic effect, an approach defined as the 'inside-out' approach. Good and balanced nutrition is considered necessary for healthy living and beautiful skin. In addition to the effects of diet and food supplements on the entire body, their effects on skin health are also taken into account. Skin care applications aimed at a healthy and youthful appearance have created a new trend. Oral intake of products is convenient in terms of user compliance. Due to aging, unbalanced nutrition, low consumption of fruits and vegetables, pesticide and fungicide use rendering nutrients unable to provide sufficient benefit to the body, environmental pollution, advancing technology and fast-paced lifestyles, the use of products that can be used for cosmetic purposes alongside diet has become widespread. While nutricosmetics may be thought of as a diet or food supplement, it should not be forgotten that their purpose is different. Many substances used as nutricosmetics are composed of proteins and fatty acids. Linoleic acid in particular plays an important role in maintaining epidermal integrity and preventing transepidermal water loss. Linolenic acid is found most abundantly in flaxseed oil. Other sources include canola oil, hemp seed oil, walnuts, sesame, avocado, albacore tuna and salmon. Linoleic acid is found in corn oil, peanuts, cottonseed oil and soybean oil. Borage oil and evening primrose oil contain high levels of linoleic acid and are popular for topical use in dry skin. Essential fatty acids have been shown to be effective in atopic dermatitis pathogenesis and treatment. Vitamins are nowadays added to foods such as milk, cheese and yogurt and sold as nutricosmetic products. Traditional yogurt does not contain milk enriched with vitamin D. However, new types of yogurt contain vitamin D and probiotic microorganisms and are used for nutricosmetic purposes. Oral vitamin D supplementation is thought to be protective against skin aging processes. Vitamin E is also used in nutricosmetic product formulations. It is effective in preventing damage related to UVB. Oral supplementation of vitamin E and selenium has been observed to improve acne lesions. Vitamin C is effective in preventing damage related to UVA. It suppresses inflammation resulting from sunburn. It is involved in collagen synthesis and is important for nail hardness. Topical application of vitamin K has been reported to reduce spots and dark circles around the eyes and correct bruising that occurs after laser surgery. When topical 1% vitamin K is applied twice daily, it has been shown to reduce bruising and prevent developing discoloration. Pantothenic acid (vitamin B5) is used as a moisturizer. Vitamin A is widely found in nutricosmetic formulations in retinoid-tretinoin form due to its topical anti-aging effects. Minerals are also included in nutricosmetics. Studies examining the relationship between iron deficiency and hair loss have reported that iron deficiency causes non-scarring alopecia, particularly in women. Flavonoids and polyphenols are among the most popular nutricosmetic substances. Soy flavonoids have been used for thousands of years in traditional Chinese medicine for skin care and treatment. Research has shown their effectiveness against UVB-induced skin damage. Phytoestrogens have been shown to increase skin thickness and collagen synthesis. Genistein and daidzein are isoflavonoids derived from soy. Genistein has been shown to increase collagen expression in cell culture, but there is no published evidence of its effectiveness in humans. Many substances can be listed as used or potentially used as nutricosmetics. What is important is the design of products that can serve the purpose well. From formulation design to product recommendation, the person's needs and nutritional knowledge should be taken into consideration. In product design, attention should be paid to how active ingredients behave in the gastrointestinal system, metabolization processes, their accumulation or elimination in the body, and formulations should be prepared accordingly. Where necessary, encapsulation should be performed to improve stability and efficacy. In the design of topically applied products, a similar approach should utilize particular systems and coating technology. Asst. Prof. Dr. Gülşah Gedik Trakya University Faculty of Pharmacy Department of Pharmaceutical Technology