Cosmetic Products: Where Have We Come From, Where Are We Going?

The history of cosmetic products extends back to the earliest civilizations. Based on information obtained from archaeological remains, we can see that although their compositions were much simpler and more basic compared to products we use today, cosmetics were used for purposes similar to those we employ now (1). Ten thousand years ago, the use of certain fragrant oils or products of ointment/cream consistency to soften the skin, prevent damage from wind and sun, cleanse, eliminate body odors, or provide pleasant fragrance fully corresponds to present-day cosmetic product definitions. The Egyptians' practice of coloring their bodies and hair using natural resources, plants, various plant organs, and minerals, outlining the area around their eyes with kohl to give them an almond shape, and the fact that people of all genders and ages carried bags containing cosmetic products and transported them wherever they went, demonstrates that cosmetic products were an important part of daily life even in those years. The European Union (EU) and Turkish Cosmetic Regulations define cosmetic products as "all substances or mixtures prepared for application to the external parts of the human body; the epidermis, nails, hair, scalp, lips and external genital organs or to the teeth and oral mucosa, whose primary or single purpose is to cleanse, perfume, alter the appearance of, protect, maintain in good condition, or correct body odors of these parts," and cosmetic product components as "all types of chemical substances or mixtures of synthetic or natural origin used in the composition of a cosmetic product, excluding perfumes and aromatic compositions" (2).

Based on well-known facts that various cosmetic products were used in daily life among the Egyptians, Romans, Chinese in the Far East, Japanese, and people in other regions.

Even a person who says "I never use cosmetic products" begins using cosmetic products from the moment they get out of bed in the morning, starting only with facial, body, hair, and oral cleansing, then diversifying with products used for moisturizing, appearance improvement, odor prevention, or fragrance purposes, reaching a considerable number. Although cosmetics appear to be used more by women, the use of cosmetic products by all of us, regardless of gender and age, is inevitable, and it extends from cradle to grave: Our use of cosmetic products begins with our first bath and ends with the cosmetic products used during the final preparations before burial. As cosmetic product use becomes more widespread and its purposes diversify, the raw materials used also diversify. Food ingredients used in homes, plant organs, natural minerals, and various mixtures of these—which we can list in a short inventory—can today be represented in lists reaching thousands of lines, backed by a very large industry. While in the past even substances that were sometimes highly harmful to health were used, today the safety of cosmetic products and raw materials has gained great importance. Substances like lead and arsenic, which caused facial paralysis and even paralysis, were used because they made people appear younger and provided a pale, white complexion (Queen Elizabeth I's powder), whereas today we avoid potentially harmful substances and can produce much healthier and stronger-claim products with many new active and auxiliary ingredients (1,2). In modern medicine, our first goal is to maintain a healthy life and prevent disease; treatment becomes our secondary approach to improve compromised health. Similar approaches have gained weight in cosmetic use as well. Cancer is one of today's most feared diseases. Research conducted and resulting statistics show how high the incidence of cancers caused by the sun's harmful rays is. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has identified solar radiation as the most important environmental risk factor causing skin cancers (3). Epidemiological research shows that the cause of non-melanoma skin cancers is chronic sun exposure. For many years, the effects of solar rays have been researched focusing mainly on UVA and UVB rays (Table 1). Preventing skin cancers, which account for about 1/3 of cancer cases, has become one of the most important issues. Protection recommendations are being developed both through the use of protective products against solar rays and through discussing physical protection methods from solar rays. Not only skin cancers but also suppression of the immune system, premature skin aging, and pigmentation spots are largely caused by harmful UV rays (4). Other important factors identified in skin aging exposome are air pollution, poor nutrition, and other factors (stress, inadequate sleep, certain products used). It is thought that UV radiation exposure is responsible for approximately 80% of skin wrinkling and sagging, that is, the aged appearance of the skin (5). The most striking evidence of photoaging is the facial images of a 69-year-old truck driver showing the right and left halves of his face. His unilateral dermatoheliosis, resulting from 28 years of exposure to UVA rays passing through the truck window while sitting in the driver's seat (window glass absorbs and does not transmit UVB rays), is truly striking (6). The effects of infrared (IR) and visible light have also recently begun to attract more attention.

A study conducted by Mahmoud and colleagues showed that IR and visible light also contribute to free radical formation, shedding light on this subject (7).

Additionally, a study conducted using artificial light sources at wavelengths of 400-800 nm demonstrated that radiation at these wavelengths causes pigmentation in the skin (8). Since visible light is currently not a radiation we are protected from, it is not only solar-derived but also emitted from sources such as LED lights used indoors, TV, computer and mobile phone screens. It appears that it will become a focus of interest and a subject that some researchers will want to investigate in the coming years. This is particularly important because it may be significant in melasma and other pigmentation-related skin diseases. Another in-vitro study also showed that these rays increased MMP-1, an enzyme effective in collagen breakdown, and tumor necrosis factor mRNA expression in keratinocytes. It is thought that such gene regulation activities occur due to increased free radical production and consequently can lead to premature skin aging in the skin. White light, whose contribution to wrinkle formation has been demonstrated through in-vivo animal tests, requires more research on its chronic effects. The effects of free radicals caused by white light on skin cancers have not yet been sufficiently examined. Therefore, with more in-vitro models or studies on humans, the predicted early-aging and cancer-causing effects of white light should be investigated. Moreover, initial data show that sunscreen products currently in use cannot prevent the effects of white light.

The formulations of sun protection products, especially those we would expect to protect our skin every day of the year, should gain a new dimension and be designed as products that will protect the skin against most radiation with different wavelengths.

Epigenetics, while addressing topics such as despite the complete mapping of the genome, even identical twins can have different diseases, repeatedly emphasizes the importance of lifestyle. The first approaches that entered the cosmetic world as "Lifestyle Analyses" have begun to become much more exciting today. With the help of a program downloaded to a phone, it is now possible to perform more accurate personal skin type and lifestyle analysis. When combined with 3D printing technologies, it will be possible to produce products that not only address individual needs but also meet the requirements of different areas of the skin. Parallel to the Human Genome Project, the 'International Human Microbiome Consortium' was established in 2008, and the "Human Microbiome Project" aimed to work on the microbiota of nasal, oral, skin, gastrointestinal, and urogenital regions (9).

Unlike the gastrointestinal tract, differences have been observed in skin microbiome both between individuals and between regions within the same individual. One of the most popular topics of 2018 was skin microbiome research.

Many researchers are trying to understand this quite difficult topic, attempting to find the contribution of microbiota to skin sensitivities, eczemas, and acne problems that are still difficult to solve. As such research continues, consumers are also beginning to be offered products containing probiotic and prebiotic ingredients. Another dimension that should not be forgotten in these studies is the effects on microbiota of certain substances contained in products we use daily for purposes consistent with the cosmetic definition. On one hand, we can prove the benefits of numerous cosmetic products through objective efficacy testing, but could these products have short and long-term effects on the microbiome? Could they be creating an entirely new environmental condition? Could we make all of these new conditions capable of protecting the skin from all harmful agents, meeting its needs, repairing its compromised systems, and controlling aging processes? Dr. Pharmacist Yasemin Yağan Uzuner Head, Department of Pharmaceutical Technology Acıbadem Mehmet Ali Aydınlar University Faculty of Pharmacy    

References 1- Chaudhri SK, A review, Asian J of Pharmaceutics, 2009; 164-167 2- Cosmetic Regulation, 2005, Official Gazette No.: 25823. 3- El Ghissassi F, Baan R, Straif K et al. A review of human carcinogens –part D: radiation., Lancet Oncol 2009; 10: 751–52. 4- Uzuner Y.Y., Effect of Sun to Skin and Sunscreen Products, Turkiye Klinikleri J Cosm Dermatol-Special Topics ;2017; 10(1):24-38. 5- 58- Uitto J, Understanding premature skin aging, N Eng J Med., 1997; 337: 1463-65. 6- Gordon JRS and Brieva JC, Unilateral Dermatoheliosis, N Engl J Med, 2012; 366:e25.