UV and Blue Light Protection in Personal Care Products

Multi-Functional UV and Blue-Light Protection in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products Products designed for the cosmetics and personal care market have always faced high expectations. Increasing consumer demand and expectations compel manufacturers to break through barriers to innovation and new product development, driving the creation of effective, sustainable, safe formulations with cosmetic aesthetics. Multi-functional cosmetic products address multiple consumer needs and combine different product segments into one. Today, multi-functionality carries importance both for end users—providing convenience and cost advantages by reducing product variety—and for manufacturers, who must meet multiple requirements and market these claims on product labels. At this point, the adoption of active ingredients with ultraviolet (UV) and/or high-energy visible light/blue light (HEVL) protection across diverse multi-functional product groups and different sun protection factor (SPF) levels represents a significant example. As the harmful effects of UV and HEVL radiation have become better understood, UV protection has shifted from a niche feature in sunscreens to a necessity across numerous daily hair and skin care products, reflecting genuine end-user demand. Examples include sun serums, lip balms, color cosmetics (makeup products, BB creams, etc.), hair care products (dry shampoo, hair oils, hair sprays, etc.), and anti-aging and spot-prevention moisturizers—all multi-functional personal care products where UV protection is expected. End users expect the best performance across all claimed features in multi-functional products, which for mineral UV filters means meeting all the requirements outlined above. Recent international scientific conferences and trade fairs such as IFSCC 2022 and In-cosmetics 2023 have repeatedly emphasized these trends. Active ingredients used for UV protection are divided into two groups: organic (chemical) and inorganic (physical). Titanium dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide (ZnO) mineral filters have less negative impact on humans and the environment compared to traditional chemical filters, while their UV and HEVL protection performance can be higher and offer efficacy across broader wavelength ranges, providing broad-spectrum protection. Although ZnO provides relatively lower SPF compared to TiO2, it offers higher and more balanced protection in the UVA and HEVL regions, delivering broader-spectrum protection than TiO2.1 The UV protection performance of mineral filters depends far more on parameters such as formulation type, production processes, and usage levels compared to chemical filters. Therefore, formulation design and development processes for high-performance, multi-functional innovative products using mineral filters are critically important. The interaction of mineral filters with emulsion, oil-based, gel, and spray form systems is critical for texture, stability, sensory feel, aesthetics, and performance. The selection of raw materials and production processes must be evaluated based on mineral UV filters and similar other critical actives that provide multi-functional benefits. Additionally, mineral UV filters themselves must be innovative—not just the design process. This is an undeniable reality. Beyond providing broad-spectrum and high-performance protection, mineral UV filters must be sustainable, safe for humans and nature, leave no white cast or residual color on skin, be easily formulated, and not create uncomfortable sensory effects on the skin. In response to growing demand for sun-protective multi-functional products, significant innovative research and development efforts are underway, particularly to enhance the performance of existing ZnO and TiO2 actives and meet end-user aesthetic expectations. The development of shape- and size-controlled next-generation ZnO actives (MicNo®-ZnO, etc.) is particularly valuable for meeting rising demand in a natural and high-performance manner. Major ZnO UV filter manufacturers exist particularly in Europe, North America, and Asia-Pacific, as well as in our country, serving cosmetics and personal care applications. Joint efforts and collaboration agreements between raw material manufacturers and other stakeholders in the industry are of considerable importance in responding effectively to growing demand. The collaboration between Entekno Materials and Croda International Plc in 2020, focused on developing next-generation high-performance human and environmentally friendly inorganic (mineral) filters, exemplifies the partnership efforts mentioned above. These collaborations and initiatives generate significant attention within important industry organizations and lead to new future developments. Color cosmetics emerges as one of the most important market segments for multi-functional formulations with UV protection. The color cosmetics market, valued at over USD 70 billion in 2021, is projected to approach USD 100 billion by 2029,2 and some reports forecast it will exceed USD 110 billion.3 Mineral UV filters are frequently used in tinted moisturizers, BB/CC creams, lip balms, and color cosmetics ranging from foundations, blushes, makeup bases, and powder formulations. Because color cosmetics manufacturers already work continuously with mineral pigments and other raw materials such as dispersants, thickeners, and softeners suitable for inorganic powder formulations, the integration of mineral UV filters into these formulations is easier compared to other formulation types. The facial area is the region of the body most exposed to UV and HEVL radiation regardless of season. Since virtually all color cosmetics products are applied to the face and surrounding areas, providing protection against these rays has become less of an added benefit and more of a necessity. In summary, cosmetics and personal care products that offer multiple benefits in one formulation are extremely important for practicality, cost-effectiveness, and most importantly, sustainability. As consumers, we should increasingly demand such products. UV and HEVL protection ranks among the most frequently used functionalities across many product categories. The development of original and innovative formulations and mineral UV filters to protect us from these radiations is critically important. References 1. Ergin, N., Sapan, Z., Kesim, M. T., Suvaci, E., "Understanding the Effects of Particle Size and Anisotropy on Microstructural and Rheological Properties of Suspoemulsions", International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists, Vol. 26, No: 1, March/2023. 2. https://www.fortunebusinessinsights.com/colour-cosmeticsmarket-104305 (accessed: 16.04.2023) 3. https://brandessenceresearch.com/consumer-goods/color-cosmetics-market-size (accessed: 16.04.2023) M. Tümerkan Kesim Research and Development Manager Entekno Materials