The Use of Sea Buckthorn Oil in Cosmetic Formulations

This article discusses the formulation of sea buckthorn oil, a highly valuable vegetable oil with rich chemical composition, in cosmetic products. Formulations have been developed at Yeditepe University Cosmetic Research and Development Laboratories. In recent years, there has been increased interest in vegetable oils for cosmetics, driven by growing demand for natural products. Vegetable oils are obtained through mechanical extraction or cold pressing of various plant parts, including seeds and fruits. The fatty acids contained in these oils create a protective film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss, thereby helping to maintain proper epidermal hydration. Additionally, fatty acids protect, regenerate and soften the stratum corneum and relieve inflammation. Long-chain fatty acid triglycerides play a significant role in the proper functioning of the human body. Vegetable oils are essential in the biological synthesis of cell membrane components and eicosanoids (prostaglandins, prostacyclins, thromboxanes, leucotrienes).

Sea buckthorn oil is one of the natural glycerides with a rich chemical composition and unique properties. This oil is obtained through mechanical cold pressing or extraction from the fruit or seeds of the plant.

Recent scientific studies confirm the presence of numerous active ingredients in sea buckthorn (Hippophaes rhamnoides) extract obtained by cold extraction from the plant's fruit, including antioxidants, vitamin C, flavonoids, polyphenols and polysaccharides. Today, sea buckthorn fruit (Fructus Hippophae) serves not only as raw material for the food industry and medicinal products, but is also a commonly used ingredient in cosmetic products, valued for its beneficial skin properties. It is worth noting that the generic name of the plant, Hippophae, originated in ancient Greece, where sea buckthorn was fed to horses to enhance their coat quality and shine (Greek hippos – horse; phaos – shiny). However, vegetable oils are unstable and susceptible to degradation when exposed to oxygen, light and temperature. Research has therefore been conducted to preserve them through encapsulation in various colloidal systems such as microcapsules, nanoemulsions and liposomes. In our study, we formulated personal care products by encapsulating sea buckthorn using liposomal technology with a Microfluidizer system. The Microfluidizer processor relies on shear forces, impact, and occasionally cavitation to emulsify liquid-liquid systems or to deagglomerate and disperse solids into liquids. The process occurs at high energy intensity levels within an interaction chamber, enabling particle size reduction, cell disruption and emulsion formation. All product material experiences identical processing conditions in a uniform, continuous and repeatable manner, yielding the following results: small particle or droplet size (often sub-micron); uniform particle or droplet size (small polydispersity index); completely scalable process; continuous processing. From our study results, 93% of the encapsulated molecules in the sea buckthorn extract were reduced to 314 nm. The anti-aging cream formulated using this extract remained stable at room temperature and 40°C for 90 days. Hülya Dağöttüren Biochemist – M.B.A. T.C. Yeditepe University Head of Medical Device and Cosmetics Research and Development Manufacturing Department