Preserving the Impossible: Challenging Nature-Based Formulations

 

PRESERVING THE IMPOSSIBLE: CHALLENGING NATURAL-BASED FORMULATIONS

Facial mask applications are considered a preservative challenge, especially cleansing masks with natural ingredients such as mud and clay. Masks are left on facial sensitive areas for 20 minutes by consumers of all ages. Therefore, irritation is a major concern. Mud and clay are preferred by consumers and are considered safe. However, just because an ingredient originates from nature does not mean it is safe for use. For mud and clay, it is even more critical, as these ingredients can carry everything that originates in the ground, including microorganisms. Often, formulators would not know where the mud originates, how it is processed or treated. A typical bacteria count in mud could be 10⁵ - 10⁷.

Today, a costly radiation process is the standard to treat mud, as very few acceptable preservatives can meet the challenge to eliminate the microbial risk. Even when the material is sterile, as it is introduced into the formula, the interaction with water could generate a preservation issue.

Combining the original state of the raw materials and their interaction in the formula raises a need for a high efficacy solution. Based on research done by Sharon Laboratories on face mask applications, we show that working with Sharomix™ Amplify preservative systems will provide broad spectrum protection for both the mud itself as well as the face mask. This patent-pending line offers high efficacy systems, allowing significantly reduced levels of use, generating the benefits of higher compatibility in both anionic and cationic formulations, reduced risk of irritation and regulatory compliance. Dead-Sea area, and at a level of use of 1%, generated TMAC results of <10, therefore allowing either avoiding the costly radiation process, or changing from an existing harsh preservative to a consumer-oriented option. The next step was testing the efficacy in a formula containing 20% Dead-Sea mud. Challenge test was performed on non-radiated mud, with the preservative AM25 at a level of 1%. Additional challenge was done to a formula with 20% treated mud, with AM25 at a level of 0.7%. Both tests passed with great results: after 48 hours all 5 microorganisms had a significant log reduction to <10, showing the flexibility of the system to handle both high risk material as well as treated material at low usage. The same study was performed on Bentonite and Kaolin face masks, with similar good results, with Sharomix™ AM20. To answer the call for phenoxyethanol-free preservation in facial products, a similar study was executed with Sharomix™ AM24. This system, used on the same tough-to-preserve formula containing 20% mud, successfully preserved the product at a level of 0.8%. In conclusion, a naturally derived ingredient does not guarantee safety. In the world of preservation, it is often the opposite. When formulating facial care products with such ingredients we must take all this into account and search for the right solution to answer all aspects: efficacy, formula compatibility, product claims, regulation and of course, safety.

ASTAREAL® ASTAXANTHIN FORMULATIONS FOR SKIN HEALTH

The global nutraceuticals market is expected to grow from USD 27.53 billion in 2018 to USD 42.30 billion by 2023. The market is segmented by ingredient types including prebiotics, probiotics, vitamins, essential fatty acids, antioxidants and more. Single ingredient products give consumers control to create a personalized supplement stack. Specialized blends take out the guesswork by matching ingredients whose complementary mechanisms of action maximize benefits. AstaReal® Astaxanthin is a powerful antioxidant and mitochondrial nutrient that is able to quench Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) and support mitochondrial function. AstaReal® Astaxanthin's antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties can be leveraged for advanced formulations in skin, muscle, eye, cardiovascular, and cognitive health. Natural astaxanthin has been studied in combination with numerous ingredients including collagen, tocotrienols, other carotenoids, vitamins, and herbal extracts.

AstaReal® Astaxanthin and Collagen Interaction

Collagen is the body's most abundant protein, found in bones, skin, muscles, and tendons. Skin ageing is a continuous and complex process explained by genetic factors as well as environmental components such as UV-light, exposure to smoke and pollution. These environmental factors, and especially UV-light, generate free radicals which are reactive molecules that will damage skin cells and break down the collagen layer. With age, collagen breaks down faster, and fibroblasts struggle to maintain collagen production. Collagen peptides alone deliver the amino acids required by fibroblasts to produce collagen. However, skin is exposed to environmental ROS daily. One study showed that skin fibroblasts exposed to ROS lost the ability to produce collagen, while those treated with natural astaxanthin were able to survive ROS exposure and maintained 80% collagen production capacity. Collagen supports firm and supple skin, while collagen breakdown results in the appearance of wrinkles. AstaReal® Astaxanthin can reverse the effects of UV exposure, improve wrinkling and decrease transepidermal water loss. It can enhance any collagen formulation by protecting both existing collagen and collagen-producing cells against free radical damage.

AstaReal® Astaxanthin and Hyaluronic Acid Interaction

Hyaluronic acid is the skin's natural moisturizer; binding 1000 times its weight in water to support skin hydration. However, hyaluronic acid has a short half-life, meaning that much of it turns over daily, with degradation being exacerbated by exposure to ROS. To replenish this water-binding molecule and support skin hydration, hyaluronic acid together with natural astaxanthin may preserve hyaluronic acid from degradation by free radicals, and has been observed to increase the production of hyaluronic acid. A combination of AstaReal® Astaxanthin and hyaluronic acid is a powerful combination for skin hydration since astaxanthin promotes a healthy stratum corneum to reduce water evaporation from skin, and hyaluronic acid helps capture water in the deeper layer of skin.

AstaReal® Astaxanthin and Ceramides Interaction

Ceramides are components of the outer layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, that help retain moisture. Not only do ceramides occur naturally in our skin, but there are many natural sources of ceramides. The ones from plants are called phytoceramides. A leading product on the market with a combination of phytoceramides, marine collagen, aloe vera and AstaReal® Astaxanthin carries claims of supporting skin hydration, smoothness, and protection against skin-damaging free radicals.

AstaReal® Astaxanthin – Make a Difference

AstaReal® Astaxanthin is the most studied brand of astaxanthin with clinically proven benefits for skin, endurance and muscle recovery, cardiovascular function, eye health, and cognitive function, and can be easily combined with key ingredients like Vitamins C, E, and B Complex, Zn, Mg, Omega 3, CoQ10, Curcumin, Lutein, Zeaxanthin, MCTs etc. To explore whether your favourite ingredient will pair with AstaReal® Astaxanthin for added benefits, contact us. Contact us during the Food & Nutritional Ingredients Exhibition at Arısan Group Booth Hall 9 Stand 860. Author - Naama Eylon - Assistant Manager Personal Care - Sharon Laboratories