INNOVATION AT DSM PERSONAL CARE: BEL-EVEN™

INNOVATION IN DSM PERSONAL CARE, BEL-EVEN™: FUTURE-PROOF YOUR SKIN FROM THE EFFECTS OF DAILY STRESS

Whether stemming from job-related issues, relationship conflicts, or simply facing a 24/7 lifestyle, stress has become a constant part of our daily lives. The human skin naturally responds to periods of stress with the formation of more cortisol through a particular enzyme; 11ß-HSD1. This release of cortisol, the so-called stress hormone, is a normal and healthy adaptation reflex. However, cortisol can turn into an enemy of the skin if it remains in excess over a long period of time. Beyond practicing stress-coping techniques, there is a high consumer interest for cosmetic treatments that work to both help the skin deal with stress and reverse any negative effects such as skin thinning, loss of elasticity and barrier weakening in general. With BEL-EVEN™, DSM has designed and patented a new cosmetic ingredient that inhibits in vitro 11ß-HSD1 (Figure 1). BEL-EVEN™ was specifically developed for skin care applications by using a rational design approach. It has a sustainable production process and it locally rebalances the negative, long-term effects of stress on skin.

Figure 1: BEL-EVEN™ inhibits cortisol in vitro dose-dependent way via 11ß-HSD1 enzyme (in human keratinocytes).

Efficacy

The effects of 1% BEL-EVEN™ on aging parameters and barrier stability was tested during a 3-month, placebo-controlled study on 30 female subjects (50-65 years). After 12 weeks of 1% BEL-EVEN™ application, facial skin elasticity significantly improves by 15.7% with respect to placebo (Figure 2).

Figure 2: Elasticity change after 4 and 12 weeks of 1% BEL-EVEN™ application.

BEL-EVEN™ helps to increase skin density significantly after 4 and 12 weeks (Figure 3). Higher skin density results from increased protein (mostly collagen) content in the dermis.

Figure 3: 1% BEL-EVEN™ application significantly increases skin density in 4 and 12 weeks.

With in vivo application of 1% BEL-EVEN™, significant improvements of skin wrinkles (such as crow's feet) are observed (Figure 4).

Figure 4: Visual assessments of crow's feet wrinkles of the volunteer (no. 44) at 0, 4 and 12 weeks of in vivo 1% BEL-EVEN™ treatment.

BEL-EVEN™ protects skin from stress ex vivo. Upon UV irradiation (3 J/cm²), expression of 11ß-HSD1 increases significantly. It is proven that BEL-EVEN™ prevents UV-induced Collagen III damage by inhibiting the enzyme 11ß-HSD1 (Figure 5).

Figure 5: BEL-EVEN™ increases collagen III levels in UV-stressed skin.

With its proven efficacy, BEL-EVEN™ offers a unique approach to combating the negative effects of daily stress, thus it is an ideal ingredient for anti-stress care, anti-pollution care, anti-aging care focusing on anti-wrinkle and skin elasticity. *: Adapted from DSM 'BEL-EVEN™- A Unique Approach to Manage Your Daily Stress' brochure.   Prepared and Compiled by*: Burçak Alioğlu Technical Sales Manager Arkem Kimya