HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT EMULSIFIER?

 

HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT EMULSIFIER?

The indispensable duo of cosmetics, water and oil do not mix with each other as you know. However, since the 1920s, our emulsifiers have kept water and oil components together to form an emulsion. The R&D process in skin care emulsion starts with the questions: Which ingredients should I use? And which is the right emulsifier to stabilize my formulation? With more than one emulsifier option available, there is a huge advantageous choice available to R&D specialists which makes the selection very complex. So, if this is your dilemma, you can get out of this chaos by choosing the right emulsifier with our expert staff. In Evonik's portfolio, which we are distributing their raw materials in personal care, there are approximately 100 varieties of emulsifiers such as polyglycerin-based esters, cationic-based or organo-silicone-based emulsifiers in the cosmetic market. You will be redirected to the into- Beauty® [intobeauty.evonik.com] platform where you can connect by creating your own password to the emulsifier that meets your criteria. You can generate the documents of your emulsifier choice from Care-Tain® Toolbox platform and you can experience the desired skin feel in your formulations via the Sensory Kaleidoscope platform.

Our Products and Innovations

In addition to all these resources, products developed with new technology gain importance as different textures emerge and sensory expectations increase. Among our silicone-based non-ionic W/O emulsifiers, ABIL® EM 180 offers impressive textures with high temperature stability and outstanding performance in challenging systems. ISOLAN® 17 MB is the new O/W emulsifier produced with the latest technology, aimed at developing your natural cosmetic product formulations with high performance. TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB, an O/W emulsifier, is a favorite of formulators due to its high performance in stabilizing UV filters, natural content and moisturizing properties. It is suitable for making hot-cold process products in various forms such as cream, lotion and spray. Symbio®muls GC MB, a product from the Dr. Straetmans portfolio, is an O/W emulsifier mixture which helps develop PEG-free, RSPO certified market products that contribute to reducing the preservative content of the formula. It is suitable for making light and silky skin feel products with various viscosities such as cream, lotion and body butter. In addition to the products mentioned above, Table 1, which shows the molecular weight and HLB values of all our emulsifiers, is a very important and practical resource that can guide you through the selection of the emulsifier. The increase in the molecular weight value of the emulsifier is the most important indicator of increased stability performance of an emulsifier. The figures and colors around the numbers in Table 1 indicate the structure and content of the emulsifier. At the same time, you can easily find out which emulsifier you should choose according to the type of the finished product you want to make (e.g. cream, lotion, spray).

Table 1. Emulsifier Selection Guide

New & Natural Emulsifier from Evonik: Push Your Boundaries with ISOLAN® 17

ISOLAN 17 is a liquid emulsifier with natural content, suitable for both cold and hot process types, which enables the design of creams, lotions, spray applications and is suitable for use by various production devices in different production facilities. As you can see in Table 1, although silicone-based emulsifiers are more successful in stability, ISOLAN® 17 offers a natural alternative solution to silicone emulsifiers due to its high molecular weight. This emulsifier is compatible with all kinds of cosmetic oil and can tolerate high amounts of oil, urea, natural preservatives, electrolytes and other components that are difficult to balance in the system. It also allows the design of high content inorganic pigments and UV filter formulas by successfully dispersing inorganic pigments and UV filters. In the comparison in Table 2, ISOLAN® 17 outperforms all other tested oil-based emulsifiers. Didem Ayşe Alabaz - Technical Product Specialist - Ravago Chemicals Turkey

Table 2. Performance comparison against oil-based benchmarks in challenging systems.

In the comparison in Table 3, ISOLAN® 17 provides at least similar results compared to some silicone emulsifiers tested. As we understand from here, ISOLAN® 17 is a natural alternative solution to silicone-based emulsifiers.

Table 3. Performance comparison against silicone-based benchmarks in challenging systems.