Next Generation 4D Retinol: Eastman GEM Retinyl Sunflowarete
Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin from animal and plant sources. Vitamin A helps regulate the immune system, maintain healthy teeth, skin and tissue, and promotes good vision. Retinoids are a class of chemical compounds that are vitamin A or chemically related to vitamin A.
Why Eastman?
Eastman IP and Trade Secret Technology; 10+ Years Of Manufacturing Experience
Derivatizing and manufacturing retinoids is very challenging since retinol is UV and oxidatively unstable.
Eastman GEM™ retinyl sunflowerate is manufactured using the GEM™ technology and is protected by US patent 7,566,795 (preparation of retinyl esters). This process adheres to the 12 Principles of Green Chemistry and consumes less energy, uses less process water, and generates less waste compared with conventional manufacturing processes.
What is Eastman GEM™ Retinyl Sunflowerate?
Sunflower oil is a mixture that when esterified with retinol, produces the following mixture:
• INCI – retinyl sunflowerseedate
• CAS: Number: 2243583-93-7 - UVCB Substance
• Bio-based content: 47% renewable carbon
Clinical Study
Conducted by Princeton Clinical Research Laboratories (PCR).
Duration: 12 weeks
Number of subjects: 37 subjects completed the study.
Types of subjects: Healthy female volunteers, 30–65 years of age, with signs of aging facial skin. Included Fitzpatrick skin types I–V.
Method: Subjects were graded on the table below and provided with the test article to use twice a day for the 12-week study duration. Clinical assessments included evaluation of fine lines, wrinkles, and skin tone by a trained evaluator at baseline, week 6 and week 12 and profilometry analysis of silicone replicas taken in the crow feet area at baseline and week 12. Subjects completed a self-perception questionnaire at week 6 and at the end of the study at week 12.
Formulation: Clinical Study
This retinyl sunflowerate formulation uses 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and other carriers to create a liquid crystalline lamellar-phase emulsion base for enhanced delivery of lipophilic actives like retinyl sunflowerate.
The liquid crystal emulsion structure shows superior moisturization when compared to conventional emulsion structures and can provide enhanced resistance to wash off.
Clinical Results
Reduction in fine lines and wrinkles; improvement in the appearance of even skin tone.
Number of subjects: 37 subjects completed the study.
Fine lines: The product demonstrated a positive trend at the week 6 time point, with visual grading showing a -25% improvement in global fine lines. At the week 12 time point, visual grading showed a -57% improvement in global fine lines.
Global wrinkles: The product demonstrated a positive trend at the week 6 time point, with visual grading showing a -15% improvement in global wrinkles. Visual grading showed a -41% improvement in global wrinkles at the week 12 time point.
Skin tone evenness: The product demonstrated a positive trend at the week 6 time point, with visual grading showing a -17% improvement in skin tone evenness. At the Week 12
time-point, visual grading showed a -33% improvement in skin tone evenness.
hRIPT: Irritation Study (on clinical formulation)
54 subjects: Zero Incidents
The objective of this study was to investigate the irritation and sensitization potential of one test article in healthy volunteers by means of repeated cutaneous occlusive patch applications based on the modified Draize method of Jordan and King (1977) in order to Support claims such as “Dermatologically Tested”, “Clinically Tested”, “Kind to Skin”, “Safe for Skin”, and “Dermatologist Approved”. 54 subjects completed the study.
No adverse events or reactions were reported (100% non irritation tested). The test article can be considered safe for use under the conditions of the study, and claims such as, “Dermatologically Tested”, “Clinically Tested”, “Kind to Skin”, “Safe for Skin” and “Dermatologist Approved” are substantiated.
Summary
Compared to retinol and retinyl palmitate; • Retinol: irritating, unstable and difficult to handle,
• Retinyl palmitate – minimal anti-aging efficacy.
Key Value Proposition
• Bio-based; bio-source sunflower oil,
• Pro-retinol antiaging ingredient,
• Clinically validated results on fine lines, wrinkles, and even skin tone,
• Gentle on skin; non-irritating,
• Shelf-stable,
• High purity; no fillers or diluents,
• Easy-to-handle flowable liquid,
• Manufactured via Eastman GEM™ technology,
• Non-yellowing; formulations do not yellow.
Cemile Afacan
Sales Engineer / Life Sciences
Safic Alcan
