Trends in Cosmetic Products

With the pandemic in cosmetic products, disposable products and hygienic products are becoming widespread. There is an increasing interest in products that are effective against irritation and acne caused using face masks. Due to the frequent hand washing, there is also an increasing demand for skin-friendly products, that balance beneficial bacteria, moisturize, and nourish the skin. Furthermore, as people spend more time on digital devices, there is a growing interest in products that provide blue light protection. In line with the concepts of healthy and good feeling, ingredients that have soothing and stress-reducing properties are becoming increasingly preferred for skincare. The top claims used in cosmetic products include being suitable for sensitive skin, providing moisturization, being dermatologically tested, having antioxidant properties, having anti-aging properties, brightening the skin, providing UV protection, and containing vitamins and minerals. According to Mintel GNPD, the use of “anti-aging claims” in cosmetic products has increased by 200%. To reduce the signs of aging on the skin, ingredients, extracts, and actives with anti-aging effects are added to these products. Trends in Cosmetic Products

Skin Mousturizing Balance

Our skin serves as a protective barrier against mechanical, chemical, and biological external factors. It also helps regulate the body’s water and temperature balance and eliminates harmful substances through sweat. The level of collagen in the skin is directly related to its health and youthfulness. When the water content in the stratum corneum decreases, the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF) also decreases, leading to surface cracks and dryness. Around 20% of the skin is lost with aging, and most anti-aging research on the skin focuses on structural components such as collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans. To maintain the skin’s moisture balance, cosmetic products use ingredients such as glycerin, sodium lactate, urea, propylene glycol, sorbitol, hyaluronic acid, vitamins and some proteins and amino acids. i. Amino acids are the building blocks of all proteins, including the most abundant fibrous proteins in the skin, such as keratins, collagen, and elastin. Amino acids play a crucial role in: (a) promoting wound healing and repairing damaged skin. (b) maintaining acid-base balance and water retention in cellular layers such as the stratum corneum; (c) protecting the skin against damage from sunlight; (d) maintaining a proper skin microbiome. (1) Amino acids such as Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Proline, Threonine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Phenylalanine which are found in the natural structure of the skin, are frequently used in anti-aging products for the skin. ii. Strategies aimed at preventing photo-aging include avoiding sun exposure, using sunscreens to block or reduce skin exposure to UV radiation, using retinoids to inhibit collagenase synthesis and stimulating collagen production, and using combination of antioxidants to reduce and neutralize the effects of UV radiation on the skin. (2) In skin care products, extracts such as Alchemilla vulgaris (Lion’s paw), Aesculus hippocastanum (Horse chestnut), Camellia Sinensis (White tea), Citrus sinensis (Orange), Vitis vinifera (Grape), Avena sativa (White Oat) prevent oxidative damage and make the skin look young. iii. Effect of collagen and hyaluronic acid: Collagen and elastin fibers are found in the dermis layer. Collagen is abundant in the skin. However, with aging, there is a loss of collagen and the building block of hyaluronic acid and adipose tissue in the inner layer of the skin. The skin loses its elasticity and becomes susceptible to damage. A sagging, wrinkled appearance with deep lines, and vulnerability to sun damage occur, and the skin gradually takes on an aged look. (3) Collagen and hyaluronic acid play a significant role in keeping our skin youthful. Skin elasticity increases, and the skin’s moisture balance improves. Collagen density increases in the deeper layers of the skin. Hyaluronic acid keeps the skin moist while triggering collagen production, which increases skin tightness and vibrancy. Hyaluronic acid also acts as an antioxidant to protect the skin against the harmful effects of free radicals, thereby delaying skin aging. Three natural botanical extracts - Centella Asiatica Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, and Echinacea angustifolia (narrow-leaved purple coneflower) Leaf Extract - increase and protect the levels of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid (HA). They provide anti-wrinkle and skin-renewing effects, increasing skin firmness in both superficial and deeper layers, reducing skin sagging, and reducing wrinkles for a younger-looking skin that is smoother. Elastin allows the skin to stretch and heal, and HA contributes to skin hydration and volume. In cosmetic applications for anti-aging effects, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, vitamins such as A (retinol), B2 (riboflavin), B3 (niacinamide), panthenol (pro-vitamin B5), biotin, folic acid, E (tocopherol acetate), as well as allantoin, alpha and beta-hydroxy acids, alpha-bisabolol, amino acids, arbutin, caffeine, egg protein, honey and derivative products, active ingredients of algae and seaweed origin, minerals, enzymes, natural oils, oligo elements, polypeptides, oligopeptides, polyphenols, flavonoids, and polysaccharides are used. Plant seed oils preferred for their softening, soothing, and firming effects are rich in carotenoids, vitamin E, and essential fatty acids (linoleic acid, γ-linolenic acid, and α-linolenic acid). The amounts of anti-aging ingredients used are determined by the effective performance ranges of the raw materials. During and after use, the product is expected to make the skin look younger, have a nourishing effect, make the skin look more radiant, keep the skin more moist, and have a healing effect. To determine whether the products provide the desired performance and care effects, effectiveness tests are performed before and after the product used. These tests include moisture test using Corneometer and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin pH value tests, skin elasticity test using Cutometer, and melanin and redness (erythema) on the skin using Mexameter. References (1) Solano, F. (2020). Metabolism and Functions of Amino Acids in the Skin. In: Wu, G. (eds) Amino Acids in Nutrition and Health. Advances in Experimental Medicine and Biology, vol 1265. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-45328-2_11) (2) Baumann L. Skin ageing and its treatment. J Pathol. 2007; 211:241–51. doi: 10.1002/path.2098. (3) Reilly DM, Lozano J. Skin collagen through the lifestages: importance for skin health ve beauty. Plast Aesthet Res 2021; 8:2. http:// dx.doi.org/10.20517/2347-9264.2020.153) Didem Bilir R&D Project Manager (Personal Wash) Evyap Sabun Yağ Gliserin San.ve Tic. A.Ş.