Green-Chemistry Based Encapsulation Technology: The Path to Efficient and Sustainable Cosmetics

12.02.2020

As there may be a lot of reasons for customers’ to choose a product, one question that is always rounding their minds is: “Will this product deliver what it promises?. Efficacy is the main feature customers look for when consuming cosmetics, and in the cosmetic industry, this means a challenge for the marketing department when positioning the product, and also for the R&D department during the formulation process. Aimed to present an innovative and natural solution to the efficacy challenge globally, the Brazilian company Nanovetores Group, through it is cosmetic branch IN Beauty, is partnering up with IMCD to offer this solution to the Turkish market.

How does encapsulation technology enhances efficacy on cosmetics?

1. Protection: The natural capsules (Figure 1) protect the active ingredient from interacting with other formula components and physical-chemical factors, as it happens with the active ingredient in free form. One example to illustrate is the ascorbic acid, the original molecule of Vitamin C, that once in it is free form oxidase when in contact with the air, becoming dehydroascorbic acid. In this case, the result can be a cosmetic with brownish coloration, less viability and efficacy of the active ingredient, and also a byproduct that may cause irritation on the skin. Therefore, Nanovetores encapsulation technology prevents these interactions to happen, assuring that the active ingredient will remain viable and able to deliver it is full benefits.

Figure 1: Biopolimeric Capsule

2. Deeper Permeation

In a reduced size (above 200nm) the capsules are able to overcome the stratum corneum, granting targeted delivery at the dermis. The ascorbic acid, Vitamin C from the example above, once encapsulated by Nanovetores is able to permeate 22% more of its content than it is free form.

3. Control Over the Active Ingredient Release

Nanovetores capsules are broken through specific release triggers, granting total control over the release of the encapsulated actives. For example, skincare active ingredients are triggered by the enzymes of human skin, once the capsules permeate into it, the enzymes degrade the capsules, releasing the active ingredient content. These capsules have a matrix structure, thus they will be degraded through time in a sustained manner, to sum up, the active will not reach the skin all at once, as happens on the free form, that is more likely to cause irritation. A sustained and controlled release is a great advantage on working with aggressive active ingredients such as retinol - one of the most efficient versions of Vitamin A -, for which the encapsulation means more efficacy due to the protection against oxidation, deeper permeation and the sustained released, and also more safety, as the active ingredient will not reach the skin all at once, being less likely to cause irritation.

Summing up, the advantages of working with encapsulation technology, is higher efficiency to the cosmetic applications, through active ingredient protection, deeper permeation, and it is controlled and sustained release through triggers.

Another feature customers are looking for is naturality. Sustainable and natural ingredients are no longer a trend, but a consolidated market, being the future for cosmetics. Understanding this, Nanovetores’ technology was developed based on the concepts of Green Chemistry, the capsules are based on natural materials - lipids and biopolymers -, and the process 100% water-based, free of organic solvents. Besides the care for the safety and sustainability of it is products, Nanovetores also develops multi-beneficial ingredients with synergic benefits. One example is Nano Up Lift, hyaluronic acid particles covered with Senegal Acacia Extract, a natural biopolymer that increases skin firmness. The blend results in a powerful anti-aging active ingredient for the eye area, with noticeable results after 7 days of usage as the photos from efficacy test shows (Figure 2 and 3).

Figure 2: Wrinkle on the periorbital area - time zero Figure 3: Wrinkle reduction after 7 days Nanovetores technology creates a virtuous cycle into the cosmetic industry, granting easier actives to be incorporated into cosmetic formulations that will deliver the expected results for the final customers. All this, with sustainable and innovative technology.