COSMOS CERTIFIED NANO-FREE MINERAL FILTERS FOR COSMETIC APPLICATIONS

ADPCosmetics faces the main problems that high SPF,broad-spectrum protection and photostability and with two lines of no-nanometric mineral filters. ADParticles exploits in exclusivity a patented method, named dry dispersion, which allows the dispersion and anchoring of particles of different sizes. SPF increment in the final formulation is obtained with a new structure where the light access to smaller particles in the filter. The filters can be used in sun care formulations and also color cosmetics for protection thanks to its innovative technology. In suncare, ADPCosmetics presents Enhance U-T and Enhance U-S two filters based on titanium dioxide (and) zinc oxide, designed to achieve high SPF values and similar broad spectrum protection in natural formulations. The filters have ECOCERT certification. For those formulations that do not require natural labels, Effective U-T is presented as a complementary filter, designed to increase the covering in UVA region. In color cosmetics with protection, ADParticles/ADPCosmetics presents three filters, with different tonalities, achieved thanks to the incorporation of iron oxides into the structure. Enhance U-T-Light, Enhance U-T-Medium, Enhance U-T-Warm are thus the filters proposed for BBcreams or CCcreams, where color is combined with sun protection. These filters possess Ecocert certifications. Furthermore, a different tonality, Enhance U- T-exclusive, can be fabricated under request. In the following table shows the main characteristics of mineral, no-nanometric & photostable Enhance U and Effective U filters:

Table 1. Enhance U and Effective U filters

Effective U-T

Effective U-T is a non-nanometric inorganic composite of TiO2 and SiO2 suitable to be used as a mineral filter. Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) was used to determine that the particle-size distribution is not in the nanometer range (1-100nm).

Fig 1. Particle-size distribution of Effective U-T

Effective U-T provides a remarkable level of UVA and UVB protection as can be seen from the UVA/UVB ratio of a typical spectrum. Thus, the UV absorption spectrum of a formula containing 7.5% of filter (w/w) showed SPF: 9.0, UVA PF: 6.6, Ratio UVA/UVB: 0.84 and critical wavelength: 383 nm. (Fig.2).

Fig2. UV absorption spectrum of Effective U-T, with the formulation used. 

Table 2. Effective U-T formulation

The range of concentrations recommended with this filter is 5-12% w/w.SPF and UVA PF values achieved with these concentrations are shown in Fig.3 (left). Besides, Effective U-T filter presents a nice photostability. SPF variation was evaluated after irradiation of the sample with UV light (Solar simulator, equipped with a specific filter for UVA-UVB).

Fig 3. Effective U-T: (A) SPF and UVA PF values obtained from the UV absorption spectra, and (B) Photostability (SPF variation after 4 irradiations of 1h.).

Effective U-T filter is a non-nanometric UV filter, photostable, designed to provide a remarkable UVA protection in sun care and skin care formulations with broad spectrum performance.   Author Blanca Motos Pérez Head of Project Development, R&D ADParticles       Translated by Zeynep Gülüm Pekçene Sales Manager Arerko